World Famous in Rishikesh - The Beatles' Ashram

 Namaste peeps,

 From a hotel in Darwin city, 9 days til Christmas and still no travel in sight.  Im still grateful for the basics though - income, food, shelter, yoga.. But roll on with a vaccine already.

Around this time last year, I ventured forth from Tapovan to the well-known Beatles' ashram, with a friend in tow and google maps.  I have to firstly address the fact that given all the stories I heard from others about the ashram being 'deep in the jungle', 'impossible to find' and taking 'hours' to reach - none of them were true for our experience.  We walked there from Tapovan, which is a beautiful walk, let me guess that it was about 1.5 hours, given some window shopping and then haggling to buy, oh and finding a tiny, well hidden temple complete with contemplative, orange clad bubba nestled inside, who we didn't really want to disturb and so we very quietly left again.  That tiny temple is on the hillside of the main road heading down towards Rum Jhula, you have to look hard to find it! 

Let me digress.  The Beatles' ashram is actually called 'Chaurasi Kutiya' (which means 48 caves in english, and that alludes to the stone igloo like constructs that were used for disciples to meditate in).  Maharashi Mahesh Yogi first visited the ashram site in 1960 and was so blown away by the tranquility that he leased the necessary 15 acres for his dream and set about establishing the ashram.  Maharashi was a guru who advocated and taught Transcendental Meditation (TM) and his ashram was visited by spiritual seekers from far and wide, like The Beatles' who are said to have been so inspired by visits here they were able to compose and write some of their many hits while here.

So, cross the bridge at Rum Jhula and then turn right onto Geeta Bhavan Road Number 3, its the main thoroughfare along that section of the Ganges.  Theres a hustle of stalls selling the usual - herbs, clothes, food and drinks, plus some temples to take in and it continues right down to where you will get to pretty much a dead end, if i recall correctly it petered out onto dirt, slightly around to the left - look straight ahead and you will see the gates to the ashram about 40m further on, on the right hand side. 

Once through those main gates, the ticket office is on the left, and its 600 rupiah for foreigners.  This covers the entrance as well as a leaflet showing a map and a little about the place.

From Merriam-Webster dictionary, the definition of 'Ashram' is  1 : a secluded dwelling of a Hindu sage also : the group of disciples instructed there. 2 : a religious or spiritual retreat, not, as I always thought, a spiritual building of some description.  My yogic experience in Rishikesh was that most yoga schools or studios for yoga practice, are called ashrams, however, going to CK was a sharp lesson in the sprawling nature of an ashram.

The map you get given at the gate walks you through, but my friend and I didn't really go by that, we just enjoyed the experience, history and wonder.  Things to note, theres still plenty of meditation caves dotted about the place, and we did get some cool photos inside, the other, theres so much art everywhere on the walls.  Well, some of it is vandalism but aside from that, theres actually some pretty cool paintings - most of which gives reverence to The Beatles or some form of spirituality synonymous with India.  

On reflection, the whole site is in total disrepair and for sure the Indian government missed a great money making opportunity by not maintaining CK, so many visitors would have loved to stay there, Im sure. It makes you wonder what the steep admission fee is used for or goes toward.  

So, that being said, enjoy the photos because Im on the fence about visiting here.  It was cool, yes, but not spectacular or overly special.   

Namaste

Covid and my swift exit from India

Hey hey again,
From my room in the Northern Territory, Australia.  I have the air con on low, yes, i still use it in winter, and can hear a flurry of bird activity outside - from screeching cockatoos to the crowing crows.  Theres a slight breeze and some high level cloud, and aside from that, a whole lot of space and quiet! 

Iv been back in Australia since the start of April, after making a hasty exit from India, and to be honest, I think I underestimated just how badly this was going to pan out for the world in general.  Here we are now in July, and theres no sign of a let up or recovery - health wise or economically.  People are asking, demanding, when will we go back to normal - when the truth is, we're here! This is the new normal, of fist bumps and masks, social distancing guiding us in activities outside the home - and of course, in travel, both domestic and international, which for me, an active, passionate traveller, is the scariest part.  What about my future plans? What about the Americas I haven't visited yet, and on it goes.  The flip side is, Im grateful - grateful I got out of India and came to a secure job, one that doesn't rely on tourism or that is not affected by social distancing.  In my remote bubble, I work,  practise yoga, exercise, read, cook, create and keep an eye on the news.  My new normal is starting to feel very normal. 

When I made the kinda hasty decision to leave Rishikesh, there was my Australian job offer involved too - I had been waiting desperately to hear from a possible job opening on the island of Svalbaard, and when that came through as a negative, because of potential virus impact (boy did it ever impact!) I said yes to Australia.   

I have a one room place I use in India, which is common for accommodation, but had acquired a few more things than I realised, so felt the need to start packing.  A friend who was studying yoga there at the time, messaged me to say health officials were at her ashram temperature testing, an Indian friend confirmed they were going through ashrams and accommodations in that whole area testing.. ohhh ok, so this was getting real.  I met an Aussie mate for coffee and told him how it was looking, oh and that by this time, my brother was messaging me from NYC telling me to get out of India asap - that he was going to do the same from USA.  So I decided to leave, took a couple more days to pack, and my mate ummed and ahhed but finally decided he would leave too, about ten days earlier than he was booked for.  I didnt book a flight out of Delhi though, I wanted to wait til I was actually IN Delhi because I know how hectic the taxi there can be for starters... so the night before we were going to leave, I went to book us into a hotel for a night in Delhi but was told we'd need to have certificates saying we didnt have CV, and there was only one hospital in Rishikesh doing those and it took four days for results, and my brother was still pushing me to get out... air bnb!  I messaged a host Id used previously and she told me she wasnt taking bookings because.... CV..  ugh! Ok, this is getting real now, really real!  Anyway, I did manage to find place in Delhi and it was not too far from the airport - score!  So the next day, we would taxi to Delhi - a trip of250km that has taken 10 hours before, you can never estimate an arrival time!   With final packing done, sort a taxi - theyre a dime a dozen, and with friends, I can get a good rate... n0 taxis.. WHAT! Omg!  But wait, a friend called the brother of a friend.. we got a taxi, and it was only 2 hours late - see why you dont book a flight for the same day! 

So we had one night in Delhi, at a great place with lovely hosts and left on our separate flights, mine was ten hours earlier than my mates - I landed in Darwin with 8 hours to spare before mandatory 14 day quarantine, meanwhile, my mate wasnt so lucky, he just missed the cut-off and had to quarantine at home in Queensland.  My new job wanted me to do two weeks in Darwin, and they paid for that, and I basically sat and watched the world close down via tv and the internet.  I cant believe how lucky I had been to get out of India and back to Australia when I did! 

Fast-forward to August 31st and now its looking unlikely that I will get to NZ for christmas at all, Australia is still locked down for all outward travel, with inbound passenger numbers and flights capped, and only certain airports receiving, oh and Melbourne is still on level 4 alert, I mean....  Sometimes I get hopeful, and other times I realise the futility of dreams about travel in the near future.  

As I write, the Tour de France is underway, and I haven't even watched the first stage - I did see a headline though stating people believe as soon as a French rider is in yellow, the Tour will end.  Its also the only large sporting event on, anywhere.  

I splashed out and got myself an apple watch during winter.  And took the bait to sign up for some of these virtual challenges that seem to be the in thing now - walking / running / cycling etc set distances and tracking it all with a device.  And its been great!  Winters in the outback offer respite from both heat and flies, and Iv seen shooting stars, amazing moons and plenty of sunrises.  And now, the medals for my efforts are starting to arrive in the mail.  An average day at work can get me up to 9km, and my morning walks were up to 12km - its been a lot quicker churning through the distances than I imagine.  I am still feeling a bit of the covid curse - weight gain, but I keep on keeping on, and am getting more and more into my groove again.  It seems to be one of the biggest side-effects, on and alcohol consumption, which also includes me but only here and there, it will never be a large part of my life!  

I ended up stopping searching for updates on India and how its going during the pandemic - so much conflicting information, even from friends that are still there!   Like anywhere else, no tourists incoming, state borders have only just reopened, masks are mandatory etc etc.  A large number of the yoga schools in Rishikesh jumped into offered YTT courses online, but of course, the knock-on effect lockdowns and job losses is less income.. a never ending circle, that is what it is.