Kandavan, Iran

Another special experience I got during my first trip in Iran.  The team had raced the inaugural Tour of Tehran in Tehran and we were then invited to race the Tour of Azarbaijan a week later (Azarbaijan as in the northern province of Iran, capital city Tabriz).  It was a day trip from Tabriz and a really cool day out, fascinating to see up close and personally.

In the mountains of northwestern Iran lies the village of Kandovan, in East Azerbaijan Province, about 60 kilometers southwest of Tabriz. Kandovan is famous for its extraordinary cave dwellings carved into volcanic rock with a history believed to stretch back around 700 years, though some claim people settled here as far back as 3,000 years ago. Kandovan is one of the world’s few inhabited rock-carved villages, infact there are only two more, one of which is in Iran, the other in Cappadocia, Turkey. 

What makes Kandovan remarkable is that it isn’t a museum or a relic of the past—it is alive, inhabited and thriving in the present day. Around 600 people still call these honeycomb-like stone homes their own, living inside the cool rock that naturally insulates against the harsh winters and hot summers. The homes, shaped almost like beehives, are stacked up the hillside and connected by narrow lanes and stairways, blending perfectly with the natural landscape.

Kandovan is often compared to Cappadocia in Turkey, yet what sets it apart is that it remains a functioning village, not just a tourist destination. Families live, work, and run small shops here, selling local honey, handicrafts, and the mineral water the area is famous for. The village attracts visitors from Iran and abroad, not only for its beauty but also for its sense of continuity—life unfolding today in much the same way it did centuries ago.

Though not a UNESCO World Heritage site, Kandovan is recognized as an important cultural treasure of Iran, drawing both tourists and researchers fascinated by how people have adapted to their environment with such creativity. For travelers, it offers a chance to experience living history, a glimpse into a way of life that is rare in the modern world, yet deeply rooted in tradition.

We were lucky enough to be invited into one of the cave-homes by its owner.  Meagre belongings and sparsely decorated were the most noticeable things but the warmth towards us by the owner was very typical of the Iranian people, and it was really special to spend some time, albeit brief, inside one of these special homes.  

Sa’dabad Palace Complex, Tehran, Iran

2008 was my first of 4 trips to Iran, each for work but in down time on that first trip, I visited the Sa’dabad Palace Complex in northern Tehran. Spanning 110 hectares with 18 palaces and museums, it was first established by the Qajar dynasty and later expanded under the Pahlavis. Sitting at the foot of the Alborz Mountains near Darband, the setting is as grand as the history.

The highlight of my visit was the White Palace (Mellat Palace), the largest building in the complex. Built in the 1930s by Reza Shah Pahlavi, it features 54 rooms across two floors. The palace’s interiors reflect a blend of modern European influences and traditional Persian craftsmanship: vast reception halls, crystal chandeliers, intricate carpets, and artworks collected from around the world - I remember thinking at the the time that it would be an amazing setting for a house party!

This was the official residence of Mohammad Reza Shah (the last Shah of Iran) and Farah Diba, where royal banquets and diplomatic receptions were hosted. After the 1979 Islamic Revolution, the monarchy was overthrown, and the palace was converted into a museum. Today, it’s one of the most visited attractions in Tehran, offering a glimpse into Iran’s royal past and its dramatic political shift.  What an awesome slice of history to see up close and personally.

Location: Darband, northern Tehran
Built: 1930s by Reza Shah
Size: 54 rooms, 2 floors, 5,000m² floor area
Complex: Sa’dabad – 110 hectares, 18 palaces
After 1979: Converted into public museums

Whats It Like Living and Working in the Falkland Islands?

Last summer I made another long journey south, again for work, only this time to a new frontier for me -  the Falkland Islands, a British Overseas Territory made up of East and West Falkland and about 200 smaller islands.

King Penguins - Falkland Islands

True to my style, I found the job advertised on a Falkland Islands job page I had joined on Facebook — so I applied, got it, confirmed it and off I went after a brief break from my Svalbard contract! The job was for cooking on Carcass Island, a privately owned (like most of the islands there) gem in the northwest of the archipelago. Carcass has no roads, no shops, and no permanent settlement beyond the lodge, which was a farm house in its heyday.  Most of the island offering accommodation in the Falklands have a similar set up, and there's something unique and homely about staying in such buildings.  The Falklands are known for incredible wildlife, both bird and mammal, including 3 types of penguin, caracaras, albatross, elephant seals, dolphins and whales — and sweeping, untouched beaches with crystal clear waters and rugged coastlines.  Carcass has large elephant seal populations, megallanec and jackass penguins and plenty of birds from geese, to ducks to wrens.  Its one of the few islands thats never suffered the presence of cats, so not only are there plenty of birds, theyre also not afraid and some will get close and comfortable enough to even land on you.

Gentoo Penguins, Sunrise

The rugged coastline, South Atlantic Ocean, FI

The summer season runs from October to April, when cruise ships bound for Antarctica stop by and small groups of nature-loving tourists fly in. Most visit specifically for the wildlife: and many make return trips. Some of the cruise ships even anchor at Carcass Island for a few hours so that their guests can explore and if their booking includes morning or afternoon tea - then well get up to 300 people visiting us in the lodge for morning or afternoon tea - which I cater for.  

Cormorants, Carcass Island

Elephant Seals, Carcass Island

Most non-cruise ship guests, the bulk of visitors, stay 2–3 nights at the lodge, and we can host a maximum of 16 people at a time. Breakfasts and dinners are catered for by me and a packed lunch prepared for them to take out on their day of exploring - hiking, birdwatching, and photography. Everyone arrives and departs with FIGAS on their little 8-seater planes that connect the islands.

Visitors came from all over the globe, but mostly the UK, US, Germany, and a few adventurous South Americans.
The Falklands themselves have a tiny population of just over 3,500, sustained by fishing, sheep farming, and tourism. Due to the invasion from Argentina in the 80s, there’s also a strong UK defence presence. To get there, you can fly once a week via Chile (Santiago → Punta Arenas → Mount Pleasant) or on the RAF airbridge from the UK.

Vultures

Kelp Goose & Chick

Upland Goose at Sunrise

There's something very special and unique about the Falklands, so much so that Ill be returning for a second summer season this October - bring it!

Visiting Scotts Hut at Cape Evans, Antarctica

 As part of the New Zealand Antarctic programme, those of us involved are usually lucky enough to get out to the historic huts of Shackleton and Scott at least once before the sea ice gets too thin.  This trip down, I only made it to Evans but theres no disappointment in that, I feel very blessed to have visited a second time!  And, like the first time I went, its a totally amazing, magical and awe-inspiring experience that almost leaves me speechless. 

I could post pages of photos but Ive left it fairly simple.  

This is Scott's Hut, a testament to the courage, determination, and tragedy of Captain Robert Falcon Scott's ill-fated Terra Nova Expedition of 1910-1913.

- **Terra Nova Expedition (1910-1913):** Led by Captain Robert Falcon Scott, the British expedition aimed to be the first to reach the geographic South Pole.

- **Race to the South Pole:** Scott's team faced fierce competition from Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen. Tragically, they arrived at the Pole on January 17, 1912, only to find Amundsen's flag already planted.

- **Tragic End:** Scott and his team perished on their return journey. Their deaths sparked a global outpouring of admiration and mourning for their courage and sacrifice.

Situated at Cape Evans on Ross Island, the hut provided shelter and a base of operations for  It was constructed primarily from pre-fabricated wooden panels, which were transported to Antarctica aboard the Terra Nova ship.  Expertly designed to withstand the harsh Antarctic conditions, there's double-layered insulated walls, a pitched roof to shed snow, and raised wooden floors to provide insulation from the frozen ground.

Scott's Hut served as living quarters, scientific laboratory, and storage facility for the expedition team, housing provisions, equipment, and personal belongings, most of which remains to this day.

Scott's team spent months preparing for their Antarctic expedition, meticulously planning supplies, equipment, and logistics for the journey.  The Terra Nova ship departed from Cardiff, Wales, in June 1910, carrying Scott and his team, along with supplies and provisions for the expedition.  After a treacherous journey through icy waters, the Terra Nova arrived at Cape Evans in January 1911, where the hut was swiftly assembled to provide shelter for the approaching Antarctic winter.

Following Scott's tragic death and the end of the expedition, subsequent Antarctic missions used Scott's Hut as a base of operations. It remained in use until the 1930s when it was abandoned and preserved as a historic site.

**Overall History and Important Facts:**

Scott's Hut, along with artifacts and supplies left behind, provides invaluable insights into the daily lives, challenges, and scientific endeavors of early Antarctic explorers.  Conservation efforts have been ongoing to preserve and protect Scott's Hut and its contents from the harsh Antarctic environment, including restoration projects to stabilize the structure and prevent further deterioration.  Scott's Hut stands as a symbol of human exploration, endurance, and sacrifice in one of the most inhospitable environments on Earth. It serves as a poignant reminder of the triumphs and tragedies of Antarctic exploration and continues to inspire generations of adventurers and scientists.

Stepping inside Scott's Hut, youre immediately transported back in time to an era of exploration, bravery, and discovery. Not only is it the purity and wonder of it all but theres a smell too.. The stack of weddell seals at the door certainly have their own aroma, the animal section where the ponies and dogs were but the preservation is also remarkable - not a cobweb or hint of dust in sight. The spirits of those who dared to venture into the unknown linger amidst the frozen silence of Antarctica's icy landscape.

5th Summer as a Chef in Antarctica!

I can't help but feel a rush of excitement surging through my veins with the fifth summer in Antarctica ahead of me!  Again with Antarctica New Zealand, ready to dive into another four-month contract filled with who-knows-what adventure and experiences.

Returning to Antarctica feels like coming home in a way. Having been here already with New Zealand and three times with Australia, each trip holds its own special memories and challenges.

The application process for this role is no walk in the park. It involves various screenings including interviews, psychometric testing, and a comprehensive medical examination, so its always a relief to pass all of them.  

Once on the ice, my role as a chef will be familiar - different kitchen than last time due to its upgrade since I was last there, but working alongside other chefs, we'll cater to the diverse palates of up to 130 individuals, comprised of staff and scientists. Despite the remote location, our kitchen buzzes with activity and we'll prepare meals that fuel both body and soul with frozen veges, a variety of proteins, pa

ntry staples and select 'freshies' when fresh fruit and vegetables arrive on inbound flights.

It's not all about the kitchen hustle though. One of the perks of working in Antarctica with New Zealand is the opportunity to explore what's outside during downtime. From walks to  activities like skiing and fat biking and, luckily, arranged 'fam trips' in a Hagglunds vehicle to historic sites like the iconic huts of explorers Scott and Shackleton, or, simply make the 3km trip over the hill to Americas McMurdo station.  With upwards of 1000 staff its akin to a mining town and has everything from gyms, to a chapel, yoga, a hair salon, store and alcoholics anonymous.

The landscape down here is nothing short of amazing. Glaciers, ice caves, mountains, ice shelf,  sea ice and the charismatic residents of Antarctica – seals lazing on icy shores, the occasional adelie or emperor penguins in the distance, and the majestic Mount Erebus dominating the horizon in the background.

Living in Antarctica comes with its own set of unique quirks. With the sun not setting during the summer months, darkness is a luxury reserved for our cozy sleeping quarters. Staff and science alike share all facilities - bedrooms from 2 to 4 in a room, bathrooms, a big laundry with 4 machines, kitchen area, gym, movie rooms, 2 libraries and a bar.  

As my time in Antarctica draws to a close, I reflect on the incredible journey I've embarked upon once again. Flying home on the NZDF 757, I can't help but feel a sense of awe at the vast expanse of icy terrain stretching beneath us. Touching down in Christchurch, I'm reminded of the stark contrast between the frozen wonderland I've just left behind and the bustling world awaiting me beyond its icy borders.

Until next time, Antarctica. You'll always hold a piece of my heart, and I'll forever cherish the memories forged amidst your frozen splendor.

Bali, Indonesia

 Hey again, 

Wow! Its done, Ive made it, Im traveling again! After 29 months grounded - the longest of my adult life, and having the same job for 19 months, another first.  It feels so good to be up and away again let me tell you.

Why Bali? I looked and looked at options online, I dreamt of where I could be, while I was still in the hot, dry and fly-filled outback - and while I was convinced it would be Thailand again, I settled on Bali.  Its a 2.5 hour flight from Darwin, big selling point, and I am familiar with Indonesia as its not my first rendezvous over this way.  

As per previous experience, it was fantastic to leave the outback.  I had two very low key nights in a suburb in Darwin and on Friday 9th September I got up early to get ready for my departure.  It was about 4am and I was never going to get back to sleep, so why not have a slow, relaxed start to the day.  There was an enormous, flat-screen tv in my room so I put the early morning news on and found out the Queen had passed away while I slept.  I showered, coffeed, packed up and called an Uber, it was the first time Ive ever used the service and my host recommended it over taxis as they're too unreliable.  Don't let my first Uber being in 2022 surprise you, lets keep in mind the places I live and work! 

I arrived to Darwin Airport with a good 3 and a half hours to spare, exactly my intention given the airport dramas that have been continuing in Australia.  I needn't have worried, Jetstar check-in wasn't open and when it did the queue was quite bearable, although it grew quickly - I was pleased to be up at the front of the line.  I also found out at check-in that the plane was now almost full, so I opted to change from my chosen window seat back to the seat on a plane I always like - last row, aisle on the left hand side if you're looking at the tail.  And I can confirm, if anyone is going to experience turbulence it will happen as soon as I lock the toilet door, without fail, every time, that has remained unchanged during covid.  

The immigration process at Bali's Ngurah Rai International Airport was fairly straight forward.  First stop was the proof of Covid vaccination check, which I had screen shotted into my phone, second stop was to pay for the visa, and I cant even remember the amount now! Lol.  But you can pay by cash or card, I must have used Australian cash (gimme a break, Id been awake since 4am!).  They give you a receipt at this counter and then it was onto immigration.  I was asked about when I will leave and the ticket I bought was to return to Australia in two months time, so clearly I will need to get a visa extension or leave Bali and then return.  Still haven't decided which option I will do but have since learned that a visa extension requires a trip to Bali capital Denpasar to get one photo taken with immigration there.  Apparently its a new post-Covid requirement.  

I grabbed a Telkomsel sim card on the way out of the airport and met my driver, who I had booked via booking.com pre-departure.  It was an offer I got from the website when I booked my accommodation.  Note - they assume / expect you to land with a working sim card using the same mobile number from your original booking, like they haven't heard of 2022 - but I found my driver fine, although he said he'd been calling me, which is also ridiculous given they had my flight details, like, chill and let me make it through the airport already.  He also couldn't find my accommodation, so I told him not to bother about it and I would find it - because I had an Indonesian sim I could send a message and someone came to meet me and walk me back to the house.  Turns out we'd driven straight past the little alley way where it is situated - definitely didn't notice the sun-bleached sign roadside. 

My accommodation is quite typically quirky of what you find in Ubud and the location was a good choice.  

Lets see what this magic island has to offer! 

How Do You Know What To Cook For Pro Cyclits?

Hey,

Well that's kind of an easy question, for me - because I raced on the road and track years ago and understand the world of cycling. The ups the downs, the potential issues or unforeseen things that crop up, meat creep, coffee high, gas, sugared out, hitting the wall..

Cyclists eat a lot, this is for sure. It's funny because working with pro cyclists has warped my serving sizes for normal people somewhat, and, cyclists are always hungry (well it seems that way).

Let's look at some of the finer details. So in my other life I work as a soigneur - this is a person who looks after cyclists on the road or track - massage, first aid, laundry, hotel rooms, food, race food, feed zone hydration and food, driving (depending on which continent you're in, at races in Asia you get given a driver) and general organiser. The aim at a race is for riders to get out of their bedrooms, do their job (race) and then relax again - everything else is the finer details that they're not involved with. Yes, it"s busy!

But, I'm going to keep this food related. I've cooked for an awesome domestic team in Australia (Budget Forklifts) at their training camp one year, and then during National Series Tours if I needed to. I worked with Australian Track Cycling at the Oceania Games one year in Invercargill New Zealand - and I did that with two electric pans and two rice cookers, in a small hotel room. Legend! I have worked with a Women's team for one of the Belgian Classics (oh no, I've done so many European races, I forget specifics) but I was also doing massage - those are busy days indeed!

In weird and whackier places (Iran, Indonesia and France when it comes to the coffee) those organised riders who know their particular likes will sort out their own things for breakfast. In most instances, races are fully catered for with hotels we stay in providing buffets. In parts of remote China for eg, Iv seen teams with their own rice cookers so they can bulk up on food they know, like and are involved in the preparation thereof, but generally, you're going to be ok in most instances.

At races I will take care of pre race, race and immediate post race food options. Cakes, more cakes, cakes things, with more savoury stuff for afterwards. It's not all cakes, but it also depends where you are, trust me. And at least cake like products are easy to eat, quick to digest and travel reasonably well on the bike in any weather.

When I can I make killer rice cakes. I really got into these in Australia and perfected some awesome flavours like pear and espresso, vanilla and blueberry, cheese and ham, trio of apricot.. you have to keep in mind that someone racing a bike needs easy access to food too, rice cakes are easy to eat and quick to digest and theres an option to rip the wrapping in one corner (with a bite) and squeeze the rice out of it.

So if I am doing the catering, then every day, or every second day, I will go early morning to the local supermarket for supplies. The team has generally gone training fairly early in the morning with a bit of cereal / toast and coffee as fuel. Lunches and dinners are always colourful, fresh, different, maybe themed to a particular cuisine, look pretty and served on time! Timing and presentation are just as important as the execution of the food itself. When any of your clients come in to eat your food, you want them to drink in what's on offer first, while they're deciding what to eat. And cyclists are always ready for a feed, so be on time!

So if I might normally have one starch option, for athletes I will do two. One might be a straight up starch, for eg potato and the second option will be quite different, whether its a salad done with starches or a pasta dish.. Proteins tend to be on the leaner side with white meat most popular and beef mince a close second. Steaks and hearty big meat dishes tend to feel heavy in the gut and don't sit well. The meals and menu plan takes into account what's on the agenda for the next day, how long we have, if they're racing or not.. With cycling as my background in sport, I understand factoring these nuances into the end product.

Vegetables, lots of them! So they're always really varied too, salads, steamed, stir fried etc. Theres so many ways to prepare both fruits and vegetables, and Im never short on creating something. Its the same with desserts actually which I can make them on the healthier side too.

I noticed a big movement in pro cycling a few years back favouring low carb(ish) and gluten free, so that's something else I utilise also. Plus, most of what's available as 'sports fuel' is sweet, or sweet tasting. It does get a little much for athletes so I purposefully steer away from anything really sweet when Im catering.

I have to be honest, I have yet to cook for a pro team and Im dying to! It is completely up my alley and something I know I'd thrive doing, and although I have come close in the past, it hasn't eventuated, yet. I'll be sure to publicise it when it happens (no 'if' here)

Where would be a country I'd love to be cooking for cyclists in? France, for sure! I got to the point from so many races in France, where I felt I could be blind-folded and put into any Carrefour supermarche and I'd manage to find my way around, that's how used to the layout I am! I do recall once, working with Australian Women's cycling and being at a race in France, and I did a supermarket dash (to Carrefour) for some pre race and post race food - one thing I got was baguettes, and because I had put them into my trolley first, they were under everything else when I got to the check out, a slight over sight on my behalf but I did my best to protect them. (To be fair, they were also at the front of the store as i entered) However, they were broken in places and as I pulled them out to get them scanned it was like in a movie where the whole room stops because of something completely outrageous that someone says or does, it felt just like that because I had committed the ultimate crime, I hadn't baby sat my baguettes. Sorry! Lesson learnt!

Happy eating guys!

What Now? Cooking for a Helicopter Company

 Yes, you read it right and it does sound cool, I know.  Especially if you're into helicopters, which I am.  

How did I get this job?  I was cooking on a cattle station last year, I met some of the pilots during the year when they came mustering at my station, asked them about their base and the company and decided 'I want to work for them next year' - and as so often happens in my life, the planets aligned and the cooks position became vacant - I was going to cook for Heli Muster. 

Our season runs parallel to the Territory cattle season which makes sense, given the majority of our flying somehow involves a cattle station - from mustering (predominantly) to fire fighting and all the other jobs that come along the way.  I don't always ask where a pilot is going or has been, or what they did - I don't often see them as they come and go but also, I appreciate just how many stations there are in the NT or just over the border into WA, they all sort of roll into one after a while. 

My 2021 season started very early in March after a break in Darwin, then a house sit in Katherine followed by 6 weeks cooking at Manbulloo station just outside of Katherine.  I flew out to HM in one of our fixed wings, landed and was like 'oh yeah, straight back to the heat and the flies. Here we go again!' 

We're based at VRD station and as you enter the property you'll see helicopters and a hangar immediately on the left hand side.  The runway is on the right hand side, there's a hangar on that also.  The kitchen is right next to the main heli hangar, and that main hangar also has offices and workshop storage.  

The bulk of us are housed on 'the back row' which, according to my apple watch, is 200 metres from the main kitchen.  There was a few old bikes lying around that are free to use, so I resurrected myself a pretty decent mountain bike to use as my chosen mode of transport.  

The majority of houses on the back row are identical 2 bedroom set ups, each with its own yard, kitchen, laundry and lounge room.  Completely unheard of on a station but VRD itself, although I don't know all the history, has an old hospital on its grounds (and two or three cemeteries) and I believe our houses once accommodated workers for the local surrounds.  

I have good wifi, kettle bells, yoga mats (plus all the props) which is all I need to feel at home.  Christmas lights and the odd picture here and there and my house is complete.  I have a good view from the kitchen windows too, of who is coming and going down this neck of the woods and what they may be up to.  

There seems to be a growing trend on cattle stations to forego breakfast in favour of a decent  smoko instead - which I think makes sense, and it's what happens at HM.  My day starts whenever I need it to to get my smoko sorted for 9.30am, but pilots and engineers will start moving around between 5 and 6am.  Not unlike myself. In winter I love an early morning decent walk, when its hotter I do more movement in my house, in the air con away from the flies.

My kitchens about the size of a shipping container - one end of it has a tv and 3 comfy chairs, the other end is working kitchen area.  Its a good, user friendly space to work in, and I have a store room at my end of the kitchen.  There is a sliding door at the television end and my end has a regular door, both of which open out onto a large deck space where the tables and seating are.  On the left end of deck (the kitchen end) is a the cold room, the other end has the barbecue.  It's a good set up with everything so close by.  

Food deliveries come by road train once a fortnight which is fairly standard practice for the outback.  The benefit of working for a helicopter company and with having an office in Katherine, and 3 fixed wing pilots is, if I ever need anything outside of an order, it doesn't take long for it to get delivered!  It will wing its way out to be on first available flight.  

So what do we eat?  Similar to a cattle station, our predominant protein is beef - when we need a new animal (a killer) one or two choppers will go to get an animal and then reappear a couple of hours later laden with beef cuts.  We hang it in the cool room and then process it after a week or so. 

This time around, Im cooking differently - my smoko's are usually a choice of at least 5 different options, including smoothies, smoothie bowls, vegetarian options and always some form of egg dish - anything else can be the likes of quiches, spanakopita, crepes, wraps (done any which way) and pies.  Lunches are left overs, or if we are low on those I will create something, it could be a pasta dish, sushi or steak sandwiches.. Generally with dinner, I will do two protein options - they might both be beef but I will have two different styles / flavours, always vegetable choices and one or two starches.  

As the temperatures get up into the 40s again, people are eating less during the day, and when its cold (that term is almost laughable when winter stays in double digits in the NT) they'll eat lunch. 

My weeks are regular - Monday to Friday, half a day Saturday and Sunday off.  No way do i miss the cattle station days of weeks on at a time, 4-5am starts etc.. those can be some long days. 

So, this is how my pandemic life is going!  Big change for me to not be living out of a suitcase in some country Iv never been to.  For now though, I am grateful to have a job, the job that I wanted, a roof over my head, to be working with nice people and to have my double vaxxed health.  

Stay safe peeps!