Arctic Cruise to the 80th Parallel - Svalbard 2024

Getting to Svalbard for a seasons work was a long-time dream come true, and one of the many perks of living and working there is getting locals rates for various activities which is how and why I went on a 5 day cruise with Hurtigruten, from Longyearbyen, up to the 80th parallel and back again. 

I shared a cabin with a fellow staff member,  aboard the historic ship MS Nordstjernen, which was doing its last summer of commercial cruises.  The ship itself was built in 1956 by Blohm & Voss in Hamburg and later used many summers for Svalbard cruising. Nordstjernen was one of the last of the old-style vessels in Hurtigruten’s fleet and carries a nostalgic feel of earlier polar travel. 

One of our standout moments came at Moffen Island, a sandbank island just above 80° N famous for its walrus haul-outs. We could clearly see the walrus grouped there, lying on the sand­bank that is Moffen Island,  giving the sense that we really were at one of the world’s far-north marine places - it was wild to think the actualy north pole was another 1100km further north though.   

Another significant stop was at Ny‑Ålesund (78°55′N) one day out from returning back to Longyearbyen.  Ny-Ålesund began life as a coal-mining settlement and later transformed into one of the northernmost year-round research outposts in the world. It’s historically notable as the airship base for Roald Amundsen’s 1926 Norge airship expedition, where the airship was tethered before the Arctic flight - the mast he used to secure it to still stands, just outside one edge of the settlement.   Research stations from many countries operate there — the UK, Norway, Japan, Germany, France, South Korea, India, China, the Netherlands and Italy, to name a few, each with their own building.  The place felt remote but serious: modern labs and miners’ huts side by side, a museum, a small shop, a gym, a dog yard of huskies, a busy port area and staff living there year-round.  (Yes, Id love to do a season there!)

Beyond the stops, the broader history of the Svalbard archipelago anchors the trip: in earlier centuries, Dutch and English whalers and sealers established shore-bases such as Smeerenburg and others on the northwest coast of Spitsbergen. These whaling stations processed whales for blubber and oil, leaving try-works, iron caldrons and grave sites on the gravel beaches. That hard human enterprise defined much of the early European Arctic presence. On our landings we saw the ruins of cabins used by fox hunters and whaling men, remains of the fire places and even large pots in some places, where whale blubber was processed, a graveyard or two etc So amazing!

On board the Nordstjernen wooden panelling, brass fittings, a panorama lounge, a café and open deck-areas built into the ship’s architecture all still reflect its heritage. Although mid-summer meant calmer waters and less ice cluttering the sea, the Arctic still felt immense and open. We spent time on deck simply watching bird life — seabird cliffs, kittiwakes, guillemots, fulmars and my favourite, puffins — and scanning shorelines for wildlife signs - most of all polar bears! (Though we didnt see any on that voyage, I still saw 14 during my season of work at the hotel) Landings were modest: hikes from shoreline, visits to old cabins and ruins, all with a constant awareness of the polar environment.

Crossing above the 80th parallel felt significant. There was no dramatic marker other than the GPS readout and the certificate signed by the expedition team, 

If I were to summarise: this trip was about wilderness, history and latitude. The vintage ship, the 80°N milestone, the whaling-station history and the research-settlement of Ny-Ålesund combined to make it something unique. From the deck of the Nordstjernen, surrounded by sea, light and Arctic calm, I saw a side of Svalbard few get to experience and its something I will never forget.

Wilkins Runway, Australian Antarctic Division, Antarctica

 Three of my five summmers in Antarctica were with Australia, and two of them at Wilkins Runway.  Pre departure training each year, was 3 month in Hobart and covered all things aviation that you could think of.  I enjoyed all that learning and aviation is definitely very interesting.  

Back then we had access to intra-email and a satellite phone for the odd phone call home now and then.  for supplies, doctor visits, a night or two here and there, wed go down to Casey station.  

Australias airbus and a Chinese helicopter

Wilkins Runway is one of the most remote airstrips in the world, sitting on the icy surface of Antarctica about 70 kilometres from Casey Station. It’s named after the Australian explorer Sir Hubert Wilkins and was built by the Australian Antarctic Division to give Australia a direct air link to the continent. Before it existed, people and cargo had to travel by ship, which could take weeks depending on the sea ice. Now, flights from Hobart to Wilkins take around four and a half hours, making it far easier to move scientists, supplies, and staff between Australia and the ice.

The runway sits on top of the Vanderford Glacier, roughly 700 metres above sea level. It isn’t made of tarmac but of compacted blue glacial ice, which shifts and moves slightly every year. Building something like this in such a place was a major challenge. Work began in the early 2000s and the runway officially opened in 2008. It stretches about 3.5 kilometres long and 100 metres wide, big enough for large aircraft like the Airbus A319 that Australia uses for Antarctic flights. Keeping the surface level and strong enough to handle a heavy plane on ice takes constant work.

Temperatures at Wilkins can drop below minus 30 degrees, and even a small rise above freezing can soften the surface too much for landings. Because of that, the runway is only open during the short summer season from November to February, when the ice is stable and visibility is good enough for flying. Weather conditions can change fast, so flights are often delayed or cancelled.

A small team lives at Wilkins through the season to look after the runway, equipment, and weather stations. They work long hours in cold winds, often in complete daylight, maintaining the surface with heavy machinery to make sure it’s safe. Living conditions are basic and isolated, with a small mess, sleeping quarters, and vehicles for transport. When the runway closes at the end of summer, it’s shut down completely until the next year.

Landing at Wilkins is a unique experience. From the air there’s nothing but endless white, and when the plane touches down, it’s on solid ice rather than a normal runway. The braking and speed control are carefully calculated because of the reduced friction. Once the engines stop, the silence and brightness are intense. The only movement is the wind and the distant line of vehicles waiting to take people back to Casey Station. It’s a strange mix of excitement and quiet, knowing how few people ever set foot there.

Wilkins Runway has strict environmental rules. Everything brought in, including fuel and waste, has to be carefully managed and taken out again. The ice surface itself is constantly monitored because it slowly moves with the glacier, sometimes several metres each year. Engineers have to resurvey and realign parts of the runway to keep it safe. There’s no sense of permanence here — the ice changes constantly, and the camp shifts with it.

The runway has made a huge difference to how Australia operates in Antarctica. It allows for quick transport of people and urgent medical evacuations, and it supports research projects that depend on short summer visits. For scientists studying climate, ice movement, and wildlife, that air access is essential.

Even with all the technology, Wilkins still feels like a frontier. The weather decides everything. It’s isolated, quiet, and demands a lot of patience. People who work there know how small they are compared to the scale of the continent. The ice moves beneath their feet, the winds come and go, and the work never really stops. Wilkins Runway might look like a strip of ice in the middle of nowhere, but it’s one of the most important connections between Australia and the frozen world to the south — a reminder that even in a place as harsh as Antarctica, people continue to adapt and find ways to live and work.

Doo-Town, Tasmania, Australila

First time in Tasmania, 2009, for pre deployment to Antarctica with Australia. Managed to do some sight seeing - introducing 'Doo Town' Doo Town, Tasmania.

On the Tasman Peninsula, about an hour and a half’s drive southeast of Hobart, there’s a little coastal settlement called Doo Town. It’s not big — in fact, it’s barely a town at all — more a small cluster of shacks overlooking Pirates Bay, near the entrance to the Tasman National Park. What makes Doo Town stand out isn’t its size or its shops (there aren’t any), but its sense of humour. Every house here has a name that ends with the word “Doo,” and together they form one of Tasmania’s quirkiest and most photographed communities.

Doo Town sits just outside the small village of Eaglehawk Neck, on the narrow isthmus that connects the Tasman Peninsula to the rest of Tasmania. From Hobart, you follow the Arthur Highway (A9) through Sorell, Dunalley, and past the turn-offs for Port Arthur. The drive takes about 90 minutes, and it’s one of those routes where the scenery keeps changing — farmland, forest, and coastline all in the mix. Once you reach Eaglehawk Neck, you pass the old Dog Line monument, where soldiers once stationed dogs to stop convicts escaping from Port Arthur, and then the road leads directly to Doo Town and the nearby Tasman Arch and Devil’s Kitchen rock formations.

The town itself is easy to miss if you’re not paying attention. There are only around 20 to 30 houses, depending on the season, and no shops or businesses. Most of the homes are holiday shacks, owned by Tasmanians who come down on weekends or during summer.

The story of Doo Town goes back to the 1930s. Before then, the area was just another small coastal shack community — one of many that popped up along Tasmania’s rugged southern and eastern coastlines. Local fisherman, tradesmen, and retirees built small, simple homes here for weekends and holidays.

The “Doo” theme started as a joke. In the early 1930s, a resident named Eric Round decided to name his shack “Doo I”, a simple pun that fit the easygoing character of the place. Another neighbour followed with “Doo Me”, and a third added “Doo Us.” From there, it caught on quickly. Soon, almost every shack in the area had some kind of “Doo” name, and the tradition stuck.

What began as local humour ended up becoming the identity of the whole settlement. Visitors would come through and laugh at the signs — “Gunadoo,” “Yankee Doodle Doo,” “Love Me Doo,” “Wee Doo,” “Howya Doo,” and “Hairy Doo.” Even today, people who build new homes there keep the tradition alive. There’s “Make Doo,” “Doo Little,” “Humpty Doo,” “Just Doo It,” “Doo Drop In,” “Doo Nothing,” and plenty more.

Today, Doo Town is officially classed as a locality rather than a township. The permanent population is tiny — roughly 20 to 40 people, depending on the season and who you ask. Most residents are part-time, and there’s no infrastructure beyond the houses themselves. No store, no pub, no post office. The nearest services are at Eaglehawk Neck, a five-minute drive away, where you’ll find accommodation, a petrol station, and a small convenience store.

Despite its size, Doo Town attracts thousands of visitors every year. Most come as part of a day trip from Hobart or Port Arthur, often combining it with the nearby natural sights. It’s a stop for a laugh and a photo, rather than a destination in itself, but that’s exactly the point — the place doesn’t try to be anything more than what it is.

While the town is small, the landscape around it is impressive. Pirates Bay stretches in a long curve of golden sand backed by forested hills. The Tasman Sea crashes against high dolerite cliffs to the south, and there are walking tracks leading to Tasman Arch, Devil’s Kitchen, and the Blowhole, all within a few minutes’ drive or a short walk.

The Tasman National Park is one of Tasmania’s most rugged and dramatic areas, with vertical cliffs, sea caves, and deep blue water. Doo Town sits right on its edge, so even though the settlement itself is tiny, it’s surrounded by some of the most photographed scenery on the island.

A few kilometres south lies Port Arthur Historic Site, the best-preserved convict settlement in Australia. This part of the peninsula is full of history — from the Dog Line at Eaglehawk Neck to the old coal mines, lookout points, and lighthouses. In that sense, Doo Town fits into a larger picture of Tasmanian life: a mix of isolation, humour, and resilience.

For all the attention it gets, Doo Town hasn’t turned itself into a tourist trap. The residents like their privacy and tend to treat the curiosity with good humour. Most visitors just park briefly on the roadside, take photos of the shack names, and move on.

Local authorities have leaned into the identity slightly — there’s a public barbecue area nearby officially called the “Doo-Lishus” food van (when it’s open), known for its fresh fish and chips and scallop pies. Otherwise, the area remains low-key. The lack of commercialisation is part of its charm. It’s still a community of holiday homes with character, not an attraction built for tourists

Doo Town represents something quite Tasmanian — that dry sense of humour and independence that shows up in a lot of rural communities here. It’s also an example of how small traditions can turn into cultural landmarks without anyone really planning it. Nobody set out to make Doo Town famous; it just happened because a handful of locals decided to have fun with something simple.

In a country full of big landscapes and famous cities, Doo Town stands out for the opposite reason — it’s small, local, and human. It’s the kind of place that doesn’t need marketing or reinvention. What you see is what you get.

Most visitors come by car as part of a loop from Hobart through Port Arthur, or as a stop while exploring the Tasman Peninsula. There’s plenty of parking, and it’s easy to walk around. There are no guided tours or entry fees; you just wander down the road and look at the house signs. The names are the main drawcard — and every visitor has their favourite.

It’s worth taking time to also explore the nearby lookout points. Tasman Arch, Devil’s Kitchen, and the Blowhole are only minutes away, each with walking tracks and viewing platforms. In clear weather, you can see out to the ocean cliffs and back over the peninsula.

Accommodation options are limited to nearby towns — Eaglehawk Neck, Taranna, or Port Arthur, all within 20 minutes.

Doo Town doesn’t take itself seriously, and that’s why people love it. It’s proof that personality matters more than size, and that humour can become a local identity. You don’t need to spend hours there, but it’s one of those spots that makes you smile and gives you a sense of what Tasmania is really about — a mix of wild coastlines, simple living, and communities that don’t mind poking fun at themselves.

For a place with fewer than 50 residents and no main street, Doo Town has left its mark on Tasmanian tourism. It’s on postcards, magnets, and guidebooks, and yet it still feels like a real, quiet settlement at the edge of the sea. The names on the shacks — “Doogese,” “Doo Rite,” “Doo Bee Doo,” “Doo Away” — are simple, but together they form a kind of folk art.

Doo Town isn’t the kind of place you “visit” for long — you stop, have a look, laugh, and move on — but it stays with you. It’s small, strange, and unmistakably Tasmanian.

The Catherine Palace, St Petersburg, Russia

 While in St Pete's, we did a side trip to the Catherine Palace.  Of course, its Russia so it didnt disappoint! 

Here's more about it - 

Just 25 kilometers south of St Petersburg lies one of Russia’s most dazzling treasures: the Catherine Palace, a spectacular baroque residence that once served as the summer home of the Russian tsars. Painted in striking shades of blue and white, adorned with gleaming gold statues, and set amid sprawling gardens and water features, the palace is one of the most impressive symbols of Russia’s imperial grandeur. Often associated with Catherine the Great, it was in fact named for Catherine I, the wife of Peter the Great, who first commissioned it in the early 18th century. Over the centuries, the palace evolved into one of the most ornate and luxurious residences in Europe, rivaling Versailles in its magnificence.

The story of the Catherine Palace begins with Catherine I of Russia, the widow of Peter the Great. In 1717 she commissioned a modest summer residence in the village of Tsarskoye Selo (now Pushkin). The original design was simple compared to what the palace would later become. After Catherine’s death, her daughter, Empress Elizabeth, inherited the estate and transformed it into the breathtaking Baroque masterpiece we see today.

It was under Elizabeth’s reign in the mid-18th century that the palace took on its dramatic grandeur. She commissioned the Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli, famous for designing St Petersburg’s Winter Palace, to create a lavish residence that would impress both Russian courtiers and visiting European dignitaries. Rastrelli’s design included a 325-meter-long façade painted in turquoise-blue and white, decorated with gleaming golden ornaments, Atlantes (male statues) and caryatids (female figures), and elaborate gilded cupolas.

When completed in 1756, the palace was a vision of extravagance. It contained hundreds of rooms, lavishly decorated with gilded carvings, mirrors, silk wallpapers, and elaborate parquet floors. Its scale and luxury were meant to showcase Russia’s power and cultural refinement.

Although the palace was built under Empress Elizabeth, it is often associated with Catherine the Great, who ruled Russia from 1762 to 1796. Catherine favored a more restrained classical style, and during her reign, she commissioned several alterations to the palace’s interiors. She employed Scottish architect Charles Cameron to redesign certain rooms in the Neoclassical style, softening some of the Baroque extravagance with cleaner lines, elegant marble, and refined decoration.

Still, the palace retained its overall Baroque splendor, and Catherine continued to use it as a summer residence and a place for lavish entertainments. Under her rule, Tsarskoye Selo became a vibrant cultural and political hub, where philosophers, artists, and statesmen mingled amid glittering balls and banquets.

Perhaps the most famous feature of the Catherine Palace was the legendary Amber Room. Originally created in Prussia in the early 18th century, the Amber Room was presented as a gift to Peter the Great and later installed in the Catherine Palace by Rastrelli. The room was decorated entirely with panels of amber, gold leaf, and mirrors, creating a warm, glowing effect that dazzled visitors.

During World War II, the Amber Room was looted by the Nazis and transported to Königsberg (modern-day Kaliningrad). Its fate remains one of history’s great mysteries, as it disappeared during the final months of the war. Today, a painstakingly reconstructed Amber Room, completed in 2003, allows visitors to experience the magnificence of the original.

The palace is surrounded by the Catherine Park, a vast estate of landscaped gardens, canals, and decorative pavilions. The grounds combine formal, geometric designs typical of French gardens with the more natural, romantic style popular in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Among the highlights are the Great Pond, a large artificial lake reflecting the palace’s blue and gold façade, and the many statues and bridges that dot the grounds. Decorative pavilions such as the Hermitage, the Grotto, and the Turkish Bath showcase the eclectic tastes of Russia’s rulers, who sought to demonstrate cultural sophistication by drawing on architectural styles from across Europe and beyond.

In the summer, the gardens become a popular retreat for both tourists and locals, offering a serene setting in contrast to the bustle of St Petersburg.

The Catherine Palace, like many treasures of Russia, suffered greatly during World War II. When Nazi forces occupied Tsarskoye Selo in 1941, the palace was ransacked and deliberately destroyed. Its interiors were stripped, artworks looted, and parts of the building set ablaze. By the time Soviet forces recaptured the area in 1944, the once-glorious palace was little more than a burned-out shell.

The devastation was so severe that many believed the palace could never be restored. Yet, in the decades following the war, an enormous restoration effort began, led by skilled artisans, architects, and historians. Using surviving photographs, documents, and fragments, they gradually rebuilt the palace room by room. The restoration continues to this day, but many sections have already been returned to their former splendor, allowing visitors to glimpse the grandeur that once defined imperial Russia.

Today, the Catherine Palace is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Russia. Located in the town of Pushkin, it can be reached easily from St Petersburg by train, bus, or organized tours. The palace is open to the public, though access is often limited to guided tours due to the delicate nature of the interiors and the high volume of visitors.

Highlights for visitors include:

• The Great Hall, a vast ballroom lined with mirrors and gilded carvings, where light streams in from rows of windows, creating a dazzling effect.

• The Amber Room, painstakingly reconstructed to showcase its glowing amber panels.

• The series of state rooms, each decorated with silk walls, intricate parquet floors, and ornate ceilings.

• The Catherine Park, where visitors can stroll through gardens, cross elegant bridges, and enjoy views of the palace reflected in the Great Pond.

For many travelers, the experience of standing before the Catherine Palace, with its brilliant blue façade and gilded statues glistening in the sunlight, is unforgettable.

A Symbol of Russia’s Cultural Identity

The Catherine Palace is more than just a tourist attraction; it is a symbol of Russia’s resilience and cultural identity. It embodies the grandeur of the Russian Empire, the artistic achievements of its architects and craftsmen, and the determination of later generations to preserve their heritage despite the ravages of war.

For Russians, the palace represents a connection to a past filled with both glory and tragedy. For international visitors, it offers a window into the richness of Russian history, from the opulence of the tsars to the devastation of conflict and the triumph of restoration.

Conclusion

The Catherine Palace is a masterpiece of architecture, history, and art. Its shimmering blue and white façade, gilded statues, and vast gardens make it one of the most beautiful palaces in the world. Inside, treasures like the Amber Room and the Great Hall remind visitors of the opulence of the Russian court. Outside, the serene gardens provide a place for reflection.

Though scarred by war, the palace has been reborn through decades of painstaking restoration, standing today as a testament to resilience and cultural pride. For anyone visiting St Petersburg, a journey to the Catherine Palace is essential—a chance to walk through history, marvel at human artistry, and witness the enduring beauty of one of Russia’s greatest imperial landmarks.

The Cathedral of St. Catherine in Tsarskoye Selo

Standing in the shadow of the grand Catherine Palace, the Cathedral of St. Catherine the Great Martyr offers a very different kind of beauty: spiritual, serene, and steeped in Russian Orthodoxy. Located in the town of Pushkin (formerly Tsarskoye Selo), just outside St Petersburg, the cathedral complements the palace with its gleaming white walls and golden domes, symbolizing the close intertwining of imperial life and faith in Russia.

The original cathedral was constructed between 1835 and 1840 during the reign of Nicholas I, designed by architect Konstantin Thon, who also created the Cathedral of Christ the Savior in Moscow. Built in the Russo-Byzantine style, it stood proudly as the spiritual heart of Tsarskoye Selo, where both courtiers and townspeople gathered to worship. Its interior was richly decorated with icons, frescoes, and ornate iconostases, creating a sacred atmosphere in contrast to the dazzling secular grandeur of the palace next door.

Tragically, the cathedral did not survive the upheavals of the 20th century. In 1939, during the Soviet campaign against religion, the cathedral was demolished, leaving only memories and photographs of its former glory. For decades, the site stood empty.

In the early 21st century, however, the decision was made to rebuild the cathedral, honoring both its architectural heritage and its spiritual significance. Completed in 2010, the modern Cathedral of St. Catherine faithfully recreates the original design, complete with its five gilded domes and striking façade. Inside, new icons and frescoes once again fill the space with light and color, reviving its role as a center of worship and community.

Today, the cathedral stands alongside the Catherine Palace as a reminder that Tsarskoye Selo was not only a place of imperial power and luxury, but also of faith, resilience, and renewal.

Moscow, Russia

 Again, back to 2002 Im sure.. Trip to Russia! Finally! A dream come true!  Its been the only time Ive ever done an organised tour, and it was totally worth it to do so.  It was 2 weeks and went Saint Petersburg to Moscow and back to Saint Petersburg, with other stops on the way.  

Of course Moscow was thrilling - from the famous Gum shopping centre, to Red Square and even the metro stations - as beautiful as they are... amazing to see in real life.  And of course no trip to Moscow would be complete without seeing the Kremlin. 

The tea and samovar museum was kinda cool too! I saw the mothership of the & Sisters buildings, had a look at some shops and a good general wander around. 

Heres a bit more about all of those things and Moscow itself - 

The Kremlin

Moscow, Russia’s sprawling capital, is a city where history and modernity sit side by side in dramatic fashion. With a population of over 12 million, it is one of Europe’s largest and most influential cities, known for its cultural richness, political weight, and unique architecture. For travelers, Moscow offers both the grandeur of imperial monuments and the austere echoes of Soviet history. At its heart lie some of the most recognizable landmarks in the world: Red Square, the Kremlin, and the colorful domes of St Basil’s Cathedral. Beyond these icons, the city also reveals subtler charms, like its long traditions of tea drinking and ornate department stores.

Almost every journey to Moscow begins at Red Square, the vast cobbled expanse that has witnessed centuries of history. Originally a market square, it evolved into a stage for state ceremonies, military parades, and moments that defined the Soviet Union. Today, Red Square is surrounded by some of the most significant buildings in Moscow, each telling its own story of power, religion, commerce, and ideology.

The Kremlin

On one side looms the Kremlin, the fortified complex that remains the political center of Russia. On another, the soaring colors and twisting onion domes of St Basil’s Cathedral grab every visitor’s eye. Opposite the Kremlin sits the massive façade of GUM, the grand shopping arcade often mistaken for a palace, while at the square’s edge lies Lenin’s Mausoleum, stark and dark, housing the preserved body of the Soviet leader. Together, these landmarks make Red Square not just a place to see, but a place to feel—the weight of Russia’s past and present in a single view.

Few structures in the world are as instantly recognizable as St Basil’s Cathedral, officially known as the Cathedral of the Intercession of the Most Holy Theotokos on the Moat. Commissioned by Ivan the Terrible in the 16th century to commemorate the conquest of Kazan, the cathedral is a masterpiece of Russian architecture. Its nine chapels, each topped with a vividly painted dome, create a surreal, almost dreamlike vision.

Legends say that Ivan blinded the architect, Postnik Yakovlev, to ensure he could never design anything as beautiful again. While the truth of that tale is debated, there is no denying the cathedral’s power to captivate. Inside, visitors find a labyrinth of narrow corridors, small chapels, and frescoes in warm reds and golds. Unlike the soaring open spaces of Western cathedrals, St Basil’s charms through intimacy, detail, and the surprise of discovery.

Standing before it, one feels not only the artistry of medieval Russia but also the weight of centuries of faith and empire that shaped the country.

The Moscow Kremlin dominates the city both physically and symbolically. Surrounded by red-brick walls and watchtowers, this vast complex has served as the seat of Russian power since the late Middle Ages. Today, it remains the official residence of the president of Russia, while also functioning as a museum and UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Inside the Kremlin, visitors encounter an astonishing collection of buildings: golden-domed cathedrals, the Grand Kremlin Palace, and the Armory Chamber with its treasure trove of jewels, icons, and Fabergé eggs. Cathedral Square, with its cluster of white stone churches, evokes the Russia of tsars and patriarchs. The sense of history here is overwhelming—this is where rulers were crowned, where church bells rang out across the city, and where crucial decisions that shaped world history were made.

A walk along the Kremlin walls offers panoramic views of Moscow, while the interiors reveal both opulence and severity. It is at once a fortress, a palace, and a living symbol of Russian statehood.

Just steps from the Kremlin stands one of the most unusual attractions in Moscow: Lenin’s Mausoleum. Often referred to informally as Lenin’s “catacomb,” this granite and marble structure houses the embalmed body of Vladimir Lenin, the leader of the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917. Since his death in 1924, Lenin has lain in a glass sarcophagus, a figure of reverence for some and curiosity for others.

Visiting the mausoleum is a surreal experience. Strict silence is enforced as visitors shuffle past the body, preserved in eerie stillness. Once, millions of Soviet citizens came here to pay respects; today, it is more a place of historical fascination than veneration. Yet it remains one of the most distinctive reminders of the Soviet era and its cult of leadership.

St Basil's Cathedral

Directly opposite the Kremlin, the GUM department store (often mistaken for “Gym” due to its Cyrillic name) dominates Red Square with its vast, ornate façade. Built in the 19th century, GUM is as much an architectural wonder as a shopping destination. Its iron and glass roof arches high above three long galleries filled with boutiques, cafés, and fountains.

During Soviet times, GUM was one of the few places where ordinary citizens could purchase consumer goods, though long queues often snaked through the building. Today, it is home to luxury brands, but it remains a beloved space for Muscovites and tourists alike. Strolling its corridors is as much about admiring the design as it is about shopping.

In the winter months GUM is decorated with lights and festive displays. In contrast to the austere granite of Lenin’s Mausoleum nearby, GUM’s bright and airy interior feels almost celebratory—a reminder that Moscow is a city of contrasts.

Beyond the monumental landmarks, Moscow also preserves smaller cultural treasures such as the Tea and Samovar Museum. Tea drinking has been central to Russian life for centuries, and the samovar—an ornate metal urn used to heat water—has become a national symbol of hospitality.  Who knew there were so many samovar options availalble? 

The museum, located in a charming 19th-century merchant’s house, displays dozens of antique samovars, ranging from simple copper vessels to elaborately decorated pieces of art. Exhibits explain the evolution of tea culture in Russia, how caravans brought tea from China across Siberia, and how the ritual of gathering around the samovar became embedded in Russian family life.

For visitors, the museum offers not just history but also a sensory experience: the aroma of tea, the glint of polished metal, and sometimes the chance to taste a freshly brewed cup in the traditional style. It provides an intimate counterpoint to Moscow’s grander attractions, showing the everyday culture that sustained Russian life through turbulent centuries.

Exploring Moscow means moving between layers of history. One moment you are standing in the medieval wonder of St Basil’s, the next you are confronting the stark Soviet legacy of Lenin’s Mausoleum. The Kremlin’s cathedrals speak of tsars and empires, while GUM’s glass-roofed arcades suggest commerce and modern consumerism. Even the Tea and Samovar Museum, modest compared to Red Square’s giants, adds to this tapestry of experiences.

Red Square, Moscow

Moscow is not a city that reveals itself all at once. Its vast avenues, monumental Soviet architecture, glittering metro stations, and hidden courtyards require time to explore. Yet at its heart, around Red Square, the essence of Russia is distilled: faith and power, ideology and art, tradition and modernity.

For travelers, Moscow can be overwhelming in scale and complex in meaning. But it is precisely this blend of grandeur and humanity that makes the city unforgettable. Standing on Red Square, with St Basil’s vibrant domes before you, the Kremlin’s walls behind you, GUM glowing to the side, and Lenin’s tomb in shadow, you realize you are at the crossroads of centuries of history. 

A Year Ago, Id Just Finished A Summer In Svalbard, The Arctic

 Another dream came true! I got to work in the Arctic, in Svalbard.  This island had had me curious for quite a few years.  I came close to getting there in 2020, but we all know how that era turned out.  

Last year, after my 5th season in Antarctica, I was googling jobs in Svalbard, found one, applied, video interviewed, got the offer and accepted.

The hotel I was cooking in is around 100km out of the capital, Longyearbyen. It can be reached by ski mobile at the start of the season, before the melt, or by boat when its warmer.  My trip out was by boat.  

Stunning scenery, masses of wildlife, interesting food options, beautiful views from every window... So grateful and thankful for an amazing experience! 

Saw the global seed vault up close and personal, did a cruise right up to the north of the archipelago, visited the Russian settlements of Pyramiden and Barentsburg, saw around 14 polar bears... I mean, it really is a very very special place.  

One thing to take away is the threat of polar bears is very real.  We never stepped out of the hotel without a stun gun that had 3 stun rounds and one flare, and for further afield, which was only just going outside of the immediate buildings, we took a loaded .308.  You see people all over town carrying rifle, theres signs in shops to remember to leave your rifle outside the establishment etc.  The number one rule regarding polar bears remains though - first step is to retreat. 

And from AI - Svalbard is a Norwegian archipelago in the high Arctic, about halfway between mainland Norway and the North Pole. First used by European whalers in the 1600s, it later became a hub for coal mining in the 19th and 20th centuries. The Svalbard Treaty of 1920 recognized Norwegian sovereignty but gave citizens of signatory countries equal rights to engage in economic activity there—why Russia still maintains a mining settlement at Barentsburg today. Longyearbyen, the main town, evolved from a coal-mining base into a small international community focused on science, tourism, and Arctic logistics.

What makes Svalbard unique is its extremes: 24-hour daylight in summer, months of polar night in winter, and a population of just 2,500 from over 50 nationalities. Beyond coal, its economy now leans on Arctic research, adventure tourism, and environmental monitoring. It’s home to the Global Seed Vault, built to safeguard the world’s crop diversity, and its fragile ecosystems face the fastest rates of warming on Earth. With glaciers, reindeer, and the ever-present polar bear, Svalbard stands at the intersection of history, science, and survival in the far north.

Kandavan, Iran

Another special experience I got during my first trip in Iran.  The team had raced the inaugural Tour of Tehran in Tehran and we were then invited to race the Tour of Azarbaijan a week later (Azarbaijan as in the northern province of Iran, capital city Tabriz).  It was a day trip from Tabriz and a really cool day out, fascinating to see up close and personally.

In the mountains of northwestern Iran lies the village of Kandovan, in East Azerbaijan Province, about 60 kilometers southwest of Tabriz. Kandovan is famous for its extraordinary cave dwellings carved into volcanic rock with a history believed to stretch back around 700 years, though some claim people settled here as far back as 3,000 years ago. Kandovan is one of the world’s few inhabited rock-carved villages, infact there are only two more, one of which is in Iran, the other in Cappadocia, Turkey. 

What makes Kandovan remarkable is that it isn’t a museum or a relic of the past—it is alive, inhabited and thriving in the present day. Around 600 people still call these honeycomb-like stone homes their own, living inside the cool rock that naturally insulates against the harsh winters and hot summers. The homes, shaped almost like beehives, are stacked up the hillside and connected by narrow lanes and stairways, blending perfectly with the natural landscape.

Kandovan is often compared to Cappadocia in Turkey, yet what sets it apart is that it remains a functioning village, not just a tourist destination. Families live, work, and run small shops here, selling local honey, handicrafts, and the mineral water the area is famous for. The village attracts visitors from Iran and abroad, not only for its beauty but also for its sense of continuity—life unfolding today in much the same way it did centuries ago.

Though not a UNESCO World Heritage site, Kandovan is recognized as an important cultural treasure of Iran, drawing both tourists and researchers fascinated by how people have adapted to their environment with such creativity. For travelers, it offers a chance to experience living history, a glimpse into a way of life that is rare in the modern world, yet deeply rooted in tradition.

We were lucky enough to be invited into one of the cave-homes by its owner.  Meagre belongings and sparsely decorated were the most noticeable things but the warmth towards us by the owner was very typical of the Iranian people, and it was really special to spend some time, albeit brief, inside one of these special homes.  

Sa’dabad Palace Complex, Tehran, Iran

2008 was my first of 4 trips to Iran, each for work but in down time on that first trip, I visited the Sa’dabad Palace Complex in northern Tehran. Spanning 110 hectares with 18 palaces and museums, it was first established by the Qajar dynasty and later expanded under the Pahlavis. Sitting at the foot of the Alborz Mountains near Darband, the setting is as grand as the history.

The highlight of my visit was the White Palace (Mellat Palace), the largest building in the complex. Built in the 1930s by Reza Shah Pahlavi, it features 54 rooms across two floors. The palace’s interiors reflect a blend of modern European influences and traditional Persian craftsmanship: vast reception halls, crystal chandeliers, intricate carpets, and artworks collected from around the world - I remember thinking at the the time that it would be an amazing setting for a house party!

This was the official residence of Mohammad Reza Shah (the last Shah of Iran) and Farah Diba, where royal banquets and diplomatic receptions were hosted. After the 1979 Islamic Revolution, the monarchy was overthrown, and the palace was converted into a museum. Today, it’s one of the most visited attractions in Tehran, offering a glimpse into Iran’s royal past and its dramatic political shift.  What an awesome slice of history to see up close and personally.

Location: Darband, northern Tehran
Built: 1930s by Reza Shah
Size: 54 rooms, 2 floors, 5,000m² floor area
Complex: Sa’dabad – 110 hectares, 18 palaces
After 1979: Converted into public museums

Whats It Like Living and Working in the Falkland Islands?

Last summer I made another long journey south, again for work, only this time to a new frontier for me -  the Falkland Islands, a British Overseas Territory made up of East and West Falkland and about 200 smaller islands.

King Penguins - Falkland Islands

True to my style, I found the job advertised on a Falkland Islands job page I had joined on Facebook — so I applied, got it, confirmed it and off I went after a brief break from my Svalbard contract! The job was for cooking on Carcass Island, a privately owned (like most of the islands there) gem in the northwest of the archipelago. Carcass has no roads, no shops, and no permanent settlement beyond the lodge, which was a farm house in its heyday.  Most of the island offering accommodation in the Falklands have a similar set up, and there's something unique and homely about staying in such buildings.  The Falklands are known for incredible wildlife, both bird and mammal, including 3 types of penguin, caracaras, albatross, elephant seals, dolphins and whales — and sweeping, untouched beaches with crystal clear waters and rugged coastlines.  Carcass has large elephant seal populations, megallanec and jackass penguins and plenty of birds from geese, to ducks to wrens.  Its one of the few islands thats never suffered the presence of cats, so not only are there plenty of birds, theyre also not afraid and some will get close and comfortable enough to even land on you.

Gentoo Penguins, Sunrise

The rugged coastline, South Atlantic Ocean, FI

The summer season runs from October to April, when cruise ships bound for Antarctica stop by and small groups of nature-loving tourists fly in. Most visit specifically for the wildlife: and many make return trips. Some of the cruise ships even anchor at Carcass Island for a few hours so that their guests can explore and if their booking includes morning or afternoon tea - then well get up to 300 people visiting us in the lodge for morning or afternoon tea - which I cater for.  

Cormorants, Carcass Island

Elephant Seals, Carcass Island

Most non-cruise ship guests, the bulk of visitors, stay 2–3 nights at the lodge, and we can host a maximum of 16 people at a time. Breakfasts and dinners are catered for by me and a packed lunch prepared for them to take out on their day of exploring - hiking, birdwatching, and photography. Everyone arrives and departs with FIGAS on their little 8-seater planes that connect the islands.

Visitors came from all over the globe, but mostly the UK, US, Germany, and a few adventurous South Americans.
The Falklands themselves have a tiny population of just over 3,500, sustained by fishing, sheep farming, and tourism. Due to the invasion from Argentina in the 80s, there’s also a strong UK defence presence. To get there, you can fly once a week via Chile (Santiago → Punta Arenas → Mount Pleasant) or on the RAF airbridge from the UK.

Vultures

Kelp Goose & Chick

Upland Goose at Sunrise

There's something very special and unique about the Falklands, so much so that Ill be returning for a second summer season this October - bring it!

Visiting Scotts Hut at Cape Evans, Antarctica

 As part of the New Zealand Antarctic programme, those of us involved are usually lucky enough to get out to the historic huts of Shackleton and Scott at least once before the sea ice gets too thin.  This trip down, I only made it to Evans but theres no disappointment in that, I feel very blessed to have visited a second time!  And, like the first time I went, its a totally amazing, magical and awe-inspiring experience that almost leaves me speechless. 

I could post pages of photos but Ive left it fairly simple.  

This is Scott's Hut, a testament to the courage, determination, and tragedy of Captain Robert Falcon Scott's ill-fated Terra Nova Expedition of 1910-1913.

- **Terra Nova Expedition (1910-1913):** Led by Captain Robert Falcon Scott, the British expedition aimed to be the first to reach the geographic South Pole.

- **Race to the South Pole:** Scott's team faced fierce competition from Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen. Tragically, they arrived at the Pole on January 17, 1912, only to find Amundsen's flag already planted.

- **Tragic End:** Scott and his team perished on their return journey. Their deaths sparked a global outpouring of admiration and mourning for their courage and sacrifice.

Situated at Cape Evans on Ross Island, the hut provided shelter and a base of operations for  It was constructed primarily from pre-fabricated wooden panels, which were transported to Antarctica aboard the Terra Nova ship.  Expertly designed to withstand the harsh Antarctic conditions, there's double-layered insulated walls, a pitched roof to shed snow, and raised wooden floors to provide insulation from the frozen ground.

Scott's Hut served as living quarters, scientific laboratory, and storage facility for the expedition team, housing provisions, equipment, and personal belongings, most of which remains to this day.

Scott's team spent months preparing for their Antarctic expedition, meticulously planning supplies, equipment, and logistics for the journey.  The Terra Nova ship departed from Cardiff, Wales, in June 1910, carrying Scott and his team, along with supplies and provisions for the expedition.  After a treacherous journey through icy waters, the Terra Nova arrived at Cape Evans in January 1911, where the hut was swiftly assembled to provide shelter for the approaching Antarctic winter.

Following Scott's tragic death and the end of the expedition, subsequent Antarctic missions used Scott's Hut as a base of operations. It remained in use until the 1930s when it was abandoned and preserved as a historic site.

**Overall History and Important Facts:**

Scott's Hut, along with artifacts and supplies left behind, provides invaluable insights into the daily lives, challenges, and scientific endeavors of early Antarctic explorers.  Conservation efforts have been ongoing to preserve and protect Scott's Hut and its contents from the harsh Antarctic environment, including restoration projects to stabilize the structure and prevent further deterioration.  Scott's Hut stands as a symbol of human exploration, endurance, and sacrifice in one of the most inhospitable environments on Earth. It serves as a poignant reminder of the triumphs and tragedies of Antarctic exploration and continues to inspire generations of adventurers and scientists.

Stepping inside Scott's Hut, youre immediately transported back in time to an era of exploration, bravery, and discovery. Not only is it the purity and wonder of it all but theres a smell too.. The stack of weddell seals at the door certainly have their own aroma, the animal section where the ponies and dogs were but the preservation is also remarkable - not a cobweb or hint of dust in sight. The spirits of those who dared to venture into the unknown linger amidst the frozen silence of Antarctica's icy landscape.