Warsaw & Krakow, Poland

 Poland, one of my big four to do - and it didnt disappoint either time. I went there for two summers back in 01/02 and taught English at a private school in the north-east - Ostrołęka and Pułtusk.  Very fond memories of such an amazing place! 

And plenty of tripping around and seeing a lot of the sights.  Heres a little about Warsaw and Krakow. 

Poland’s two most famous cities, Kraków and Warsaw, showcase very different sides of the country’s history and spirit. Kraków, the former royal capital, is known for its medieval beauty and cultural depth, while Warsaw, the present-day capital, reflects resilience, rebirth, and modern ambition.

Kraków’s crown jewel is Wawel Castle, perched on a hill overlooking the Vistula River. This vast complex, dating back to the 14th century, was once the seat of Polish kings and queens. Within its walls are a cathedral, royal chambers, armories, and museums filled with treasures collected over centuries. The castle’s Renaissance courtyard is one of the finest in Europe, while Wawel Cathedral holds the tombs of Poland’s monarchs and national heroes. To stroll here is to walk through the heart of Polish identity and pride. Beyond the castle, Kraków enchants with its vast Main Market Square, the largest medieval square in Europe, flanked by the Cloth Hall and the towering St. Mary’s Basilica. Despite Poland’s turbulent past, Kraków was largely spared from destruction in World War II, leaving its Old Town remarkably intact.

Warsaw tells a very different story. Nearly flattened during the war, the city had to rebuild almost entirely from ruins. The painstaking reconstruction of the Old Town, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a testament to Polish determination. But Warsaw also embraced the chance to modernize, mixing skyscrapers with historic palaces and leafy parks. Rising above the skyline is the Palace of Culture and Science, one of the so-called “Seven Sisters” built under Stalin’s direction across the Soviet Union and Eastern Europe. Completed in 1955, it remains the tallest building in Poland at 237 meters. Once controversial as a symbol of Soviet dominance, today it houses theaters, museums, cinemas, and an observation deck offering sweeping views of the capital.

Together, Kraków and Warsaw capture Poland’s layered story: one city a preserved jewel of the past, the other a living symbol of resilience and adaptation.

Lithuania - 4 Times

 Back in the early 2000s I spent time working as an english teacher in Poland - and all my visa renewals I did in Lithuania.  The capital, Vilnius, is where I spent most of my time but I managed to get to the coast and explore a little more of the country and see cool things like the Hill of Crosses. 

Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, is a city where history and creativity meet at every corner. Nestled at the confluence of the Vilnia and Neris rivers, Vilnius has been a cultural crossroads for centuries. Its Old Town, one of the largest in Europe, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famed for its labyrinth of cobbled streets, baroque churches, and pastel-colored townhouses. Walking through it feels like stepping back in time, with Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture blending seamlessly.

The city’s history stretches back to the 14th century, when Grand Duke Gediminas established Vilnius as the capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Over the centuries, it became a hub of trade, culture, and learning. It has also endured hardship, from wars and occupations to the devastation of its once-thriving Jewish community during World War II. Today, Vilnius embraces this complex past while projecting a vibrant, youthful energy.

Modern Vilnius is known for its thriving arts scene and creative neighborhoods. The bohemian district of Užupis, often compared to Montmartre in Paris, has declared itself an independent republic with its own whimsical constitution. Street art, quirky cafes, and artisan shops spill across its narrow streets, making it a must-see for visitors seeking Vilnius’s playful side.

The city is also green and welcoming, with open squares, riverside paths, and panoramic views from spots like Gediminas Tower or the Hill of Three Crosses. Museums such as the National Museum of Lithuania and the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights provide deeper insights into the country’s journey.

Vilnius is accessible, affordable, and endlessly walkable. Whether you’re admiring the baroque masterpiece of St. Peter and Paul’s Church, sipping coffee in Cathedral Square, or exploring the lively nightlife, Lithuania’s capital offers a mix of old-world charm and modern vibrancy that lingers long after you leave.The Hill of Crosses, or Kryžių Kalnas, is one of Lithuania’s most powerful symbols of faith and resilience. Located about 12 kilometers north of the city of Šiauliai, this site is unlike anywhere else in the world. From a distance, it appears to be a grassy mound, but as you approach, the scale becomes clear—hundreds of thousands of crosses, rosaries, crucifixes, and statues crowd together, creating a striking landscape of devotion.

The origins of the Hill of Crosses date back to the 19th century, after the 1831 Uprising against the Russian Empire. Families began placing crosses on the hill to honor those who had died or disappeared. Over time, it grew into a place of pilgrimage, particularly during Soviet rule, when religious expression was suppressed. The Soviets bulldozed the site several times, but locals continually replaced the crosses, often under the cover of night. By the time Lithuania regained independence in 1991, the hill had become a powerful symbol of endurance and faith.

Today, estimates suggest there are well over 100,000 crosses on the hill, though the number is constantly growing as visitors from around the world continue to add their own. The site is free to visit and open year-round. Pilgrims and tourists alike bring crosses, small and large, inscribed with prayers, names, or messages of hope.

The Hill of Crosses is not only a national shrine but also a recognized site of Catholic pilgrimage. In 1993, Pope John Paul II visited and celebrated Mass there, further cementing its international significance.

Visitors typically reach the hill from Šiauliai, with buses and tours making the short journey. It’s best to allow at least an hour to walk among the paths, take in the solemn atmosphere, and leave your own cross if you wish.

The coastal town of Klaipėda, Lithuania’s only seaport city, sits on the Baltic coast where the Dane River meets the Curonian Lagoon. With its maritime heritage, cobblestoned old town, and proximity to stunning natural landscapes, Klaipėda offers visitors a fascinating mix of history and seaside charm.

Founded in 1252 by the Teutonic Knights, the city was originally known as Memel and has long been a contested hub between Germanic and Baltic powers. Its architecture reflects this layered past, with timber-framed German-style houses sitting alongside Soviet-era blocks and modern developments. For centuries, Klaipėda was part of Prussia and later Germany, only becoming part of Lithuania in 1923 after Lithuanian forces staged the Klaipėda Revolt. This was short-lived, however: in March 1939, Adolf Hitler visited the city personally to mark Nazi Germany’s annexation of Klaipėda and the wider region. It was the last territorial expansion before the outbreak of World War II.

Today, Klaipėda embraces its complicated history while presenting itself as a lively port town. The Old Town features atmospheric squares like Theatre Square, home to the statue of “Ännchen von Tharau,” a nod to the city’s German past. The Curonian Spit, a UNESCO World Heritage Site shared with Russia’s Kaliningrad region, is easily accessible from Klaipėda and offers visitors endless sand dunes, pine forests, and quiet fishing villages.

Klaipėda is also the gateway to Lithuania’s summer escapes. Ferries connect the mainland to the Curonian Spit, while the city itself bustles with festivals, street markets, and a growing arts scene. Visitors can explore the Lithuanian Sea Museum and Dolphinarium, stroll along the harbor, or enjoy the fresh catch of the day in a seaside café.

Compact, walkable, and steeped in maritime tradition, Klaipėda is both a reminder of Lithuania’s turbulent past and a vibrant hub for exploring the Baltic coast.

Grūtas Park, often nicknamed “Stalin’s World,” is one of Lithuania’s most unusual and thought-provoking attractions. Located near the spa town of Druskininkai in southern Lithuania, the park was established in 2001 by businessman Viliumas Malinauskas. Its purpose is to preserve and display relics of the Soviet era, allowing visitors to confront Lithuania’s difficult past under communist rule.

The park is home to over 80 statues and monuments that once dominated public spaces during the Soviet period. These include imposing figures of Lenin, Stalin, and other communist leaders, as well as busts, plaques, and Soviet propaganda art. After Lithuania regained independence in 1990, most of these symbols were removed from cities and towns, but Grūtas Park became a place where they could be preserved in context rather than destroyed.

Spread across a large, forested area, the park is designed to feel like a journey into the past. Visitors walk along boardwalks and trails, passing guard towers and barbed-wire fences reminiscent of a Soviet labor camp. A small museum on-site displays documents, photographs, and everyday items from the communist period, offering deeper insight into how Lithuanians lived under the Soviet system.

While the subject matter is heavy, the park also incorporates lighter elements, such as a playground, a mini-zoo, and cafes, making it accessible to families. Still, the overall experience encourages reflection on history and remembrance of the struggles faced by Lithuanians under Soviet control.

Today, Grūtas Park attracts both locals and international visitors interested in history, politics, and memory. It stands as a reminder of how far Lithuania has come since regaining independence, while ensuring that the lessons of its Soviet past are not forgotten.Though Iv been to all the Baltic states, Lithuania was where I spent the most time and had the most visits. 

A Year Ago, Id Just Finished A Summer In Svalbard, The Arctic

 Another dream came true! I got to work in the Arctic, in Svalbard.  This island had had me curious for quite a few years.  I came close to getting there in 2020, but we all know how that era turned out.  

Last year, after my 5th season in Antarctica, I was googling jobs in Svalbard, found one, applied, video interviewed, got the offer and accepted.

The hotel I was cooking in is around 100km out of the capital, Longyearbyen. It can be reached by ski mobile at the start of the season, before the melt, or by boat when its warmer.  My trip out was by boat.  

Stunning scenery, masses of wildlife, interesting food options, beautiful views from every window... So grateful and thankful for an amazing experience! 

Saw the global seed vault up close and personal, did a cruise right up to the north of the archipelago, visited the Russian settlements of Pyramiden and Barentsburg, saw around 14 polar bears... I mean, it really is a very very special place.  

One thing to take away is the threat of polar bears is very real.  We never stepped out of the hotel without a stun gun that had 3 stun rounds and one flare, and for further afield, which was only just going outside of the immediate buildings, we took a loaded .308.  You see people all over town carrying rifle, theres signs in shops to remember to leave your rifle outside the establishment etc.  The number one rule regarding polar bears remains though - first step is to retreat. 

And from AI - Svalbard is a Norwegian archipelago in the high Arctic, about halfway between mainland Norway and the North Pole. First used by European whalers in the 1600s, it later became a hub for coal mining in the 19th and 20th centuries. The Svalbard Treaty of 1920 recognized Norwegian sovereignty but gave citizens of signatory countries equal rights to engage in economic activity there—why Russia still maintains a mining settlement at Barentsburg today. Longyearbyen, the main town, evolved from a coal-mining base into a small international community focused on science, tourism, and Arctic logistics.

What makes Svalbard unique is its extremes: 24-hour daylight in summer, months of polar night in winter, and a population of just 2,500 from over 50 nationalities. Beyond coal, its economy now leans on Arctic research, adventure tourism, and environmental monitoring. It’s home to the Global Seed Vault, built to safeguard the world’s crop diversity, and its fragile ecosystems face the fastest rates of warming on Earth. With glaciers, reindeer, and the ever-present polar bear, Svalbard stands at the intersection of history, science, and survival in the far north.

Four Trips to Iran, In A Nutshell

I have been to Iran four times, each time for work withing road cycling - traveling with a western team as a soigneur, and a couple of times as team manager as well - particularly its northwest, in the Azerbaijan region. Tabriz, the capital of East Azerbaijan Province, is often considered the cultural and historical heart of the area. Known for its bustling bazaars, rich heritage, and breathtaking natural surroundings, it is also home to one of the most important cycling events in Asia: the Tour of Azerbaijan.

The Tour of Azerbaijan, also referred to as the Tour of Iran (Azerbaijan), is an annual multi-stage road bicycle race that first began in 1986. The race has been a cornerstone of Iran’s sporting calendar, gaining recognition from the Union Cycliste Internationale (UCI) as part of the Asia Tour, classified as a 2.1 event. Its routes wind through the mountainous landscapes of East and West Azerbaijan, showcasing both the endurance of the athletes and the dramatic geography of the region. For me, being present at the race—sometimes as an observer, other times more closely involved—has been a unique lens into Iranian life, hospitality, and its growing passion for competitive cycling.

The race typically spans six stages, covering around 1,000 kilometers of challenging terrain. Cyclists pass through cities such as Tabriz, Urmia, Jolfa, and Sarein, each offering its own mix of history and scenery. Perhaps most memorable are the sections that trace the slopes of Mount Sahand, a dormant stratovolcano near Tabriz, or the rolling countryside that leads toward the border with the Republic of Azerbaijan. The race covers amazing scenery, up and down mountain roads, and along vast flats.  It also draws big crowds to spectate - and being a western woman, working on a males race and, covering my body and hair in my choice of dress and style - well it makes for plenty of intrigue, looks and friendly, open attempts at conversation.

Tabriz itself provides a striking backdrop for the race. With a history stretching back thousands of years, it was once a capital of the Safavid dynasty and a major hub on the Silk Road. Today, landmarks like the Tabriz Historic Bazaar Complex—a UNESCO World Heritage Site that I have visited more than once—and the Blue Mosque, with its distinctive turquoise tiles, remind visitors of its layered past. For cyclists, though, it’s the city’s position at nearly 1,350 meters above sea level and its surrounding mountains that make it both a strategic starting point and a physically demanding challenge.

Another integral part of this story is the Tabriz Petrochemical Team (TPT), which for years was Iran’s most successful professional cycling team. Founded in 2002, the team quickly rose to prominence, dominating regional competitions and becoming a fixture in the Tour of Azerbaijan. Their riders have claimed multiple stage wins and overall titles in the race, cementing the team’s reputation across Asia. The Petrochemical Team not only gave Iranian cyclists a platform on the international stage but also inspired a new generation of athletes in the country.  They became important to myself and my trips to Iran - I was caught short one year, both with promised Iranian riders and staff - and TPT came through and helped me when I needed it and if I could return the favor I did.  We often met up again at races in other Asian countries - always a really friendly bunch.

TPT’s success is intertwined with the history of the Tour itself. At one point, the team was so dominant that it secured several overall general classification victories in succession, often sweeping podium places. This gave Iranian cycling credibility beyond its borders, proving that athletes from the region could compete—and win—against international riders. While the team’s presence has shifted in recent years, its legacy in shaping Iran’s cycling culture remains undeniable.

For me, the experience of traveling to Iran for the Tour of Azerbaijan has always been about more than the sport.  International teams from Europe and Asia would arrive in Tabriz, often surprised by the level of organization and the sheer passion of the local crowds. Fans would line the streets in small villages, reminding us that cycling here was both a sport and a communal celebration - however, Ive also witnessed the peloton being pelted by stones too, so there was that side as well.

Outside of the race, exploring the Azerbaijan region of Iran offered another layer of fascination. The nearby city of Urmia, with its vast salt lake, was once a jewel of the region, though the shrinking Lake Urmia has become a symbol of the country’s environmental struggles, but we had time to stop at Lake Urmia one year and get a close up of its vast white expanse.  Villages near Jolfa along the Aras River border reveal a more pastoral side of life, with orchards, tea houses, and traces of Armenian heritage in the old churches scattered throughout. Sarein, famous for its natural hot springs, is another stage stop, where cyclists and visitors alike can soak in thermal baths after long days on the road.

The climate of the region makes it ideal for cycling but also punishing. Spring, when the Tour is usually held, brings a mix of warm days and cool nights, with sudden mountain winds adding unpredictability to each stage. The high altitude and rugged roads test even the strongest riders, and crashes are not uncommon on the sharp descents. 

Cycling in Iran has not always been without its challenges. Political shifts, sanctions, and international isolation have often limited the exposure of Iranian athletes. Yet, despite these barriers, the Tour of Azerbaijan and teams like Tabriz Petrochemical have carved out their own legacy. For the riders, competing in front of their home fans while also gaining international recognition has been a rare and rewarding opportunity.

My first trip in 2008 was when I first heard about and of the Iranian pop singer Arash - and his song Tike Tike Kardi was a massive hit.  Fast forward to now and I still have a lot of his music downloaded, it even helped learn some basic Farsi.  I can count to ten in Farsi still - both orally and written, and I formed close and long lasting friendships with Iranians from race staff, to interpreters to athletes.  What an aboslutely amazing country - culturally and historically. Id love to return one day and see more of this incredible place. 

Kandavan, Iran

Another special experience I got during my first trip in Iran.  The team had raced the inaugural Tour of Tehran in Tehran and we were then invited to race the Tour of Azarbaijan a week later (Azarbaijan as in the northern province of Iran, capital city Tabriz).  It was a day trip from Tabriz and a really cool day out, fascinating to see up close and personally.

In the mountains of northwestern Iran lies the village of Kandovan, in East Azerbaijan Province, about 60 kilometers southwest of Tabriz. Kandovan is famous for its extraordinary cave dwellings carved into volcanic rock with a history believed to stretch back around 700 years, though some claim people settled here as far back as 3,000 years ago. Kandovan is one of the world’s few inhabited rock-carved villages, infact there are only two more, one of which is in Iran, the other in Cappadocia, Turkey. 

What makes Kandovan remarkable is that it isn’t a museum or a relic of the past—it is alive, inhabited and thriving in the present day. Around 600 people still call these honeycomb-like stone homes their own, living inside the cool rock that naturally insulates against the harsh winters and hot summers. The homes, shaped almost like beehives, are stacked up the hillside and connected by narrow lanes and stairways, blending perfectly with the natural landscape.

Kandovan is often compared to Cappadocia in Turkey, yet what sets it apart is that it remains a functioning village, not just a tourist destination. Families live, work, and run small shops here, selling local honey, handicrafts, and the mineral water the area is famous for. The village attracts visitors from Iran and abroad, not only for its beauty but also for its sense of continuity—life unfolding today in much the same way it did centuries ago.

Though not a UNESCO World Heritage site, Kandovan is recognized as an important cultural treasure of Iran, drawing both tourists and researchers fascinated by how people have adapted to their environment with such creativity. For travelers, it offers a chance to experience living history, a glimpse into a way of life that is rare in the modern world, yet deeply rooted in tradition.

We were lucky enough to be invited into one of the cave-homes by its owner.  Meagre belongings and sparsely decorated were the most noticeable things but the warmth towards us by the owner was very typical of the Iranian people, and it was really special to spend some time, albeit brief, inside one of these special homes.  

Sa’dabad Palace Complex, Tehran, Iran

2008 was my first of 4 trips to Iran, each for work but in down time on that first trip, I visited the Sa’dabad Palace Complex in northern Tehran. Spanning 110 hectares with 18 palaces and museums, it was first established by the Qajar dynasty and later expanded under the Pahlavis. Sitting at the foot of the Alborz Mountains near Darband, the setting is as grand as the history.

The highlight of my visit was the White Palace (Mellat Palace), the largest building in the complex. Built in the 1930s by Reza Shah Pahlavi, it features 54 rooms across two floors. The palace’s interiors reflect a blend of modern European influences and traditional Persian craftsmanship: vast reception halls, crystal chandeliers, intricate carpets, and artworks collected from around the world - I remember thinking at the the time that it would be an amazing setting for a house party!

This was the official residence of Mohammad Reza Shah (the last Shah of Iran) and Farah Diba, where royal banquets and diplomatic receptions were hosted. After the 1979 Islamic Revolution, the monarchy was overthrown, and the palace was converted into a museum. Today, it’s one of the most visited attractions in Tehran, offering a glimpse into Iran’s royal past and its dramatic political shift.  What an awesome slice of history to see up close and personally.

Location: Darband, northern Tehran
Built: 1930s by Reza Shah
Size: 54 rooms, 2 floors, 5,000m² floor area
Complex: Sa’dabad – 110 hectares, 18 palaces
After 1979: Converted into public museums