Lithuania - 4 Times

 Back in the early 2000s I spent time working as an english teacher in Poland - and all my visa renewals I did in Lithuania.  The capital, Vilnius, is where I spent most of my time but I managed to get to the coast and explore a little more of the country and see cool things like the Hill of Crosses. 

Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, is a city where history and creativity meet at every corner. Nestled at the confluence of the Vilnia and Neris rivers, Vilnius has been a cultural crossroads for centuries. Its Old Town, one of the largest in Europe, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famed for its labyrinth of cobbled streets, baroque churches, and pastel-colored townhouses. Walking through it feels like stepping back in time, with Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture blending seamlessly.

The city’s history stretches back to the 14th century, when Grand Duke Gediminas established Vilnius as the capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Over the centuries, it became a hub of trade, culture, and learning. It has also endured hardship, from wars and occupations to the devastation of its once-thriving Jewish community during World War II. Today, Vilnius embraces this complex past while projecting a vibrant, youthful energy.

Modern Vilnius is known for its thriving arts scene and creative neighborhoods. The bohemian district of Užupis, often compared to Montmartre in Paris, has declared itself an independent republic with its own whimsical constitution. Street art, quirky cafes, and artisan shops spill across its narrow streets, making it a must-see for visitors seeking Vilnius’s playful side.

The city is also green and welcoming, with open squares, riverside paths, and panoramic views from spots like Gediminas Tower or the Hill of Three Crosses. Museums such as the National Museum of Lithuania and the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights provide deeper insights into the country’s journey.

Vilnius is accessible, affordable, and endlessly walkable. Whether you’re admiring the baroque masterpiece of St. Peter and Paul’s Church, sipping coffee in Cathedral Square, or exploring the lively nightlife, Lithuania’s capital offers a mix of old-world charm and modern vibrancy that lingers long after you leave.The Hill of Crosses, or Kryžių Kalnas, is one of Lithuania’s most powerful symbols of faith and resilience. Located about 12 kilometers north of the city of Šiauliai, this site is unlike anywhere else in the world. From a distance, it appears to be a grassy mound, but as you approach, the scale becomes clear—hundreds of thousands of crosses, rosaries, crucifixes, and statues crowd together, creating a striking landscape of devotion.

The origins of the Hill of Crosses date back to the 19th century, after the 1831 Uprising against the Russian Empire. Families began placing crosses on the hill to honor those who had died or disappeared. Over time, it grew into a place of pilgrimage, particularly during Soviet rule, when religious expression was suppressed. The Soviets bulldozed the site several times, but locals continually replaced the crosses, often under the cover of night. By the time Lithuania regained independence in 1991, the hill had become a powerful symbol of endurance and faith.

Today, estimates suggest there are well over 100,000 crosses on the hill, though the number is constantly growing as visitors from around the world continue to add their own. The site is free to visit and open year-round. Pilgrims and tourists alike bring crosses, small and large, inscribed with prayers, names, or messages of hope.

The Hill of Crosses is not only a national shrine but also a recognized site of Catholic pilgrimage. In 1993, Pope John Paul II visited and celebrated Mass there, further cementing its international significance.

Visitors typically reach the hill from Šiauliai, with buses and tours making the short journey. It’s best to allow at least an hour to walk among the paths, take in the solemn atmosphere, and leave your own cross if you wish.

The coastal town of Klaipėda, Lithuania’s only seaport city, sits on the Baltic coast where the Dane River meets the Curonian Lagoon. With its maritime heritage, cobblestoned old town, and proximity to stunning natural landscapes, Klaipėda offers visitors a fascinating mix of history and seaside charm.

Founded in 1252 by the Teutonic Knights, the city was originally known as Memel and has long been a contested hub between Germanic and Baltic powers. Its architecture reflects this layered past, with timber-framed German-style houses sitting alongside Soviet-era blocks and modern developments. For centuries, Klaipėda was part of Prussia and later Germany, only becoming part of Lithuania in 1923 after Lithuanian forces staged the Klaipėda Revolt. This was short-lived, however: in March 1939, Adolf Hitler visited the city personally to mark Nazi Germany’s annexation of Klaipėda and the wider region. It was the last territorial expansion before the outbreak of World War II.

Today, Klaipėda embraces its complicated history while presenting itself as a lively port town. The Old Town features atmospheric squares like Theatre Square, home to the statue of “Ännchen von Tharau,” a nod to the city’s German past. The Curonian Spit, a UNESCO World Heritage Site shared with Russia’s Kaliningrad region, is easily accessible from Klaipėda and offers visitors endless sand dunes, pine forests, and quiet fishing villages.

Klaipėda is also the gateway to Lithuania’s summer escapes. Ferries connect the mainland to the Curonian Spit, while the city itself bustles with festivals, street markets, and a growing arts scene. Visitors can explore the Lithuanian Sea Museum and Dolphinarium, stroll along the harbor, or enjoy the fresh catch of the day in a seaside café.

Compact, walkable, and steeped in maritime tradition, Klaipėda is both a reminder of Lithuania’s turbulent past and a vibrant hub for exploring the Baltic coast.

Grūtas Park, often nicknamed “Stalin’s World,” is one of Lithuania’s most unusual and thought-provoking attractions. Located near the spa town of Druskininkai in southern Lithuania, the park was established in 2001 by businessman Viliumas Malinauskas. Its purpose is to preserve and display relics of the Soviet era, allowing visitors to confront Lithuania’s difficult past under communist rule.

The park is home to over 80 statues and monuments that once dominated public spaces during the Soviet period. These include imposing figures of Lenin, Stalin, and other communist leaders, as well as busts, plaques, and Soviet propaganda art. After Lithuania regained independence in 1990, most of these symbols were removed from cities and towns, but Grūtas Park became a place where they could be preserved in context rather than destroyed.

Spread across a large, forested area, the park is designed to feel like a journey into the past. Visitors walk along boardwalks and trails, passing guard towers and barbed-wire fences reminiscent of a Soviet labor camp. A small museum on-site displays documents, photographs, and everyday items from the communist period, offering deeper insight into how Lithuanians lived under the Soviet system.

While the subject matter is heavy, the park also incorporates lighter elements, such as a playground, a mini-zoo, and cafes, making it accessible to families. Still, the overall experience encourages reflection on history and remembrance of the struggles faced by Lithuanians under Soviet control.

Today, Grūtas Park attracts both locals and international visitors interested in history, politics, and memory. It stands as a reminder of how far Lithuania has come since regaining independence, while ensuring that the lessons of its Soviet past are not forgotten.Though Iv been to all the Baltic states, Lithuania was where I spent the most time and had the most visits.