A Year Ago, Id Just Finished A Summer In Svalbard, The Arctic

 Another dream came true! I got to work in the Arctic, in Svalbard.  This island had had me curious for quite a few years.  I came close to getting there in 2020, but we all know how that era turned out.  

Last year, after my 5th season in Antarctica, I was googling jobs in Svalbard, found one, applied, video interviewed, got the offer and accepted.

The hotel I was cooking in is around 100km out of the capital, Longyearbyen. It can be reached by ski mobile at the start of the season, before the melt, or by boat when its warmer.  My trip out was by boat.  

Stunning scenery, masses of wildlife, interesting food options, beautiful views from every window... So grateful and thankful for an amazing experience! 

Saw the global seed vault up close and personal, did a cruise right up to the north of the archipelago, visited the Russian settlements of Pyramiden and Barentsburg, saw around 14 polar bears... I mean, it really is a very very special place.  

One thing to take away is the threat of polar bears is very real.  We never stepped out of the hotel without a stun gun that had 3 stun rounds and one flare, and for further afield, which was only just going outside of the immediate buildings, we took a loaded .308.  You see people all over town carrying rifle, theres signs in shops to remember to leave your rifle outside the establishment etc.  The number one rule regarding polar bears remains though - first step is to retreat. 

And from AI - Svalbard is a Norwegian archipelago in the high Arctic, about halfway between mainland Norway and the North Pole. First used by European whalers in the 1600s, it later became a hub for coal mining in the 19th and 20th centuries. The Svalbard Treaty of 1920 recognized Norwegian sovereignty but gave citizens of signatory countries equal rights to engage in economic activity there—why Russia still maintains a mining settlement at Barentsburg today. Longyearbyen, the main town, evolved from a coal-mining base into a small international community focused on science, tourism, and Arctic logistics.

What makes Svalbard unique is its extremes: 24-hour daylight in summer, months of polar night in winter, and a population of just 2,500 from over 50 nationalities. Beyond coal, its economy now leans on Arctic research, adventure tourism, and environmental monitoring. It’s home to the Global Seed Vault, built to safeguard the world’s crop diversity, and its fragile ecosystems face the fastest rates of warming on Earth. With glaciers, reindeer, and the ever-present polar bear, Svalbard stands at the intersection of history, science, and survival in the far north.

Four Trips to Iran, In A Nutshell

I have been to Iran four times, each time for work withing road cycling - traveling with a western team as a soigneur, and a couple of times as team manager as well - particularly its northwest, in the Azerbaijan region. Tabriz, the capital of East Azerbaijan Province, is often considered the cultural and historical heart of the area. Known for its bustling bazaars, rich heritage, and breathtaking natural surroundings, it is also home to one of the most important cycling events in Asia: the Tour of Azerbaijan.

The Tour of Azerbaijan, also referred to as the Tour of Iran (Azerbaijan), is an annual multi-stage road bicycle race that first began in 1986. The race has been a cornerstone of Iran’s sporting calendar, gaining recognition from the Union Cycliste Internationale (UCI) as part of the Asia Tour, classified as a 2.1 event. Its routes wind through the mountainous landscapes of East and West Azerbaijan, showcasing both the endurance of the athletes and the dramatic geography of the region. For me, being present at the race—sometimes as an observer, other times more closely involved—has been a unique lens into Iranian life, hospitality, and its growing passion for competitive cycling.

The race typically spans six stages, covering around 1,000 kilometers of challenging terrain. Cyclists pass through cities such as Tabriz, Urmia, Jolfa, and Sarein, each offering its own mix of history and scenery. Perhaps most memorable are the sections that trace the slopes of Mount Sahand, a dormant stratovolcano near Tabriz, or the rolling countryside that leads toward the border with the Republic of Azerbaijan. The race covers amazing scenery, up and down mountain roads, and along vast flats.  It also draws big crowds to spectate - and being a western woman, working on a males race and, covering my body and hair in my choice of dress and style - well it makes for plenty of intrigue, looks and friendly, open attempts at conversation.

Tabriz itself provides a striking backdrop for the race. With a history stretching back thousands of years, it was once a capital of the Safavid dynasty and a major hub on the Silk Road. Today, landmarks like the Tabriz Historic Bazaar Complex—a UNESCO World Heritage Site that I have visited more than once—and the Blue Mosque, with its distinctive turquoise tiles, remind visitors of its layered past. For cyclists, though, it’s the city’s position at nearly 1,350 meters above sea level and its surrounding mountains that make it both a strategic starting point and a physically demanding challenge.

Another integral part of this story is the Tabriz Petrochemical Team (TPT), which for years was Iran’s most successful professional cycling team. Founded in 2002, the team quickly rose to prominence, dominating regional competitions and becoming a fixture in the Tour of Azerbaijan. Their riders have claimed multiple stage wins and overall titles in the race, cementing the team’s reputation across Asia. The Petrochemical Team not only gave Iranian cyclists a platform on the international stage but also inspired a new generation of athletes in the country.  They became important to myself and my trips to Iran - I was caught short one year, both with promised Iranian riders and staff - and TPT came through and helped me when I needed it and if I could return the favor I did.  We often met up again at races in other Asian countries - always a really friendly bunch.

TPT’s success is intertwined with the history of the Tour itself. At one point, the team was so dominant that it secured several overall general classification victories in succession, often sweeping podium places. This gave Iranian cycling credibility beyond its borders, proving that athletes from the region could compete—and win—against international riders. While the team’s presence has shifted in recent years, its legacy in shaping Iran’s cycling culture remains undeniable.

For me, the experience of traveling to Iran for the Tour of Azerbaijan has always been about more than the sport.  International teams from Europe and Asia would arrive in Tabriz, often surprised by the level of organization and the sheer passion of the local crowds. Fans would line the streets in small villages, reminding us that cycling here was both a sport and a communal celebration - however, Ive also witnessed the peloton being pelted by stones too, so there was that side as well.

Outside of the race, exploring the Azerbaijan region of Iran offered another layer of fascination. The nearby city of Urmia, with its vast salt lake, was once a jewel of the region, though the shrinking Lake Urmia has become a symbol of the country’s environmental struggles, but we had time to stop at Lake Urmia one year and get a close up of its vast white expanse.  Villages near Jolfa along the Aras River border reveal a more pastoral side of life, with orchards, tea houses, and traces of Armenian heritage in the old churches scattered throughout. Sarein, famous for its natural hot springs, is another stage stop, where cyclists and visitors alike can soak in thermal baths after long days on the road.

The climate of the region makes it ideal for cycling but also punishing. Spring, when the Tour is usually held, brings a mix of warm days and cool nights, with sudden mountain winds adding unpredictability to each stage. The high altitude and rugged roads test even the strongest riders, and crashes are not uncommon on the sharp descents. 

Cycling in Iran has not always been without its challenges. Political shifts, sanctions, and international isolation have often limited the exposure of Iranian athletes. Yet, despite these barriers, the Tour of Azerbaijan and teams like Tabriz Petrochemical have carved out their own legacy. For the riders, competing in front of their home fans while also gaining international recognition has been a rare and rewarding opportunity.

My first trip in 2008 was when I first heard about and of the Iranian pop singer Arash - and his song Tike Tike Kardi was a massive hit.  Fast forward to now and I still have a lot of his music downloaded, it even helped learn some basic Farsi.  I can count to ten in Farsi still - both orally and written, and I formed close and long lasting friendships with Iranians from race staff, to interpreters to athletes.  What an aboslutely amazing country - culturally and historically. Id love to return one day and see more of this incredible place. 

Kandavan, Iran

Another special experience I got during my first trip in Iran.  The team had raced the inaugural Tour of Tehran in Tehran and we were then invited to race the Tour of Azarbaijan a week later (Azarbaijan as in the northern province of Iran, capital city Tabriz).  It was a day trip from Tabriz and a really cool day out, fascinating to see up close and personally.

In the mountains of northwestern Iran lies the village of Kandovan, in East Azerbaijan Province, about 60 kilometers southwest of Tabriz. Kandovan is famous for its extraordinary cave dwellings carved into volcanic rock with a history believed to stretch back around 700 years, though some claim people settled here as far back as 3,000 years ago. Kandovan is one of the world’s few inhabited rock-carved villages, infact there are only two more, one of which is in Iran, the other in Cappadocia, Turkey. 

What makes Kandovan remarkable is that it isn’t a museum or a relic of the past—it is alive, inhabited and thriving in the present day. Around 600 people still call these honeycomb-like stone homes their own, living inside the cool rock that naturally insulates against the harsh winters and hot summers. The homes, shaped almost like beehives, are stacked up the hillside and connected by narrow lanes and stairways, blending perfectly with the natural landscape.

Kandovan is often compared to Cappadocia in Turkey, yet what sets it apart is that it remains a functioning village, not just a tourist destination. Families live, work, and run small shops here, selling local honey, handicrafts, and the mineral water the area is famous for. The village attracts visitors from Iran and abroad, not only for its beauty but also for its sense of continuity—life unfolding today in much the same way it did centuries ago.

Though not a UNESCO World Heritage site, Kandovan is recognized as an important cultural treasure of Iran, drawing both tourists and researchers fascinated by how people have adapted to their environment with such creativity. For travelers, it offers a chance to experience living history, a glimpse into a way of life that is rare in the modern world, yet deeply rooted in tradition.

We were lucky enough to be invited into one of the cave-homes by its owner.  Meagre belongings and sparsely decorated were the most noticeable things but the warmth towards us by the owner was very typical of the Iranian people, and it was really special to spend some time, albeit brief, inside one of these special homes.  

Sa’dabad Palace Complex, Tehran, Iran

2008 was my first of 4 trips to Iran, each for work but in down time on that first trip, I visited the Sa’dabad Palace Complex in northern Tehran. Spanning 110 hectares with 18 palaces and museums, it was first established by the Qajar dynasty and later expanded under the Pahlavis. Sitting at the foot of the Alborz Mountains near Darband, the setting is as grand as the history.

The highlight of my visit was the White Palace (Mellat Palace), the largest building in the complex. Built in the 1930s by Reza Shah Pahlavi, it features 54 rooms across two floors. The palace’s interiors reflect a blend of modern European influences and traditional Persian craftsmanship: vast reception halls, crystal chandeliers, intricate carpets, and artworks collected from around the world - I remember thinking at the the time that it would be an amazing setting for a house party!

This was the official residence of Mohammad Reza Shah (the last Shah of Iran) and Farah Diba, where royal banquets and diplomatic receptions were hosted. After the 1979 Islamic Revolution, the monarchy was overthrown, and the palace was converted into a museum. Today, it’s one of the most visited attractions in Tehran, offering a glimpse into Iran’s royal past and its dramatic political shift.  What an awesome slice of history to see up close and personally.

Location: Darband, northern Tehran
Built: 1930s by Reza Shah
Size: 54 rooms, 2 floors, 5,000m² floor area
Complex: Sa’dabad – 110 hectares, 18 palaces
After 1979: Converted into public museums

The Golden Temple – Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, Kathmandu

Just a few steps from Patan Durbar Square, tucked into the busy lanes of Lalitpur, lies the Golden Temple (Hiranya Varna Mahavihar) — one of the most sacred Buddhist monasteries in the Kathmandu Valley.  Don't expect to see a literal golden temple from the street though, like I did - there's a black entrance, a small courtyard and then you walk through and archway and are at the actual Golden Temple.

This monastery was founded in the 12th century and is still an active place of worship. Its nickname comes from the dazzling gilded façade, statues, and metalwork that decorate the courtyard and shrine. The temple houses a striking golden image of Shakyamuni Buddha, alongside statues of Avalokiteshvara and Tara, watched over by guardian deities at every corner.  There seemed to be no shortage of hawkers at each corner too, but I did what I do with all hawkers and kept on walking.  

Street view of the Temple Entrance

Despite being centuries old, the temple remains alive with rituals and daily worship. The monastery is cared for by a community of Newar Buddhist priests, and every morning you’ll find devotees offering butter lamps, rice, and prayers.

The temple complex itself is small, but layered with history — intricate carvings, prayer wheels, and ornate toranas (gateways) show the unique fusion of Hindu and Buddhist traditions that defines Newar culture. Inside, photography is restricted, but the atmosphere — incense, chants, flickering lamps — stays with you long after, and I had no issue getting any of the photos or videos that I got.

Entry is modest at 100 NPR for foreigners, and the quick walk to the temple is easy to combine with a visit to Patan Museum and Durbar Square.

Patan Durbar Square, Kathmandu

Today I visited Patan Durbar Square in Lalitpur (Patan), just across the Bagmati River from Kathmandu. 

This UNESCO World Heritage Site was once the royal palace of the Malla kings, and it truly feels like stepping into a living museum. The square is filled with exquisite Newar architecture — tiered temples, courtyards, shrines, and intricate wood carvings that tell centuries-old stories. 

Patan’s roots go back to the 3rd century BC, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. The square itself flourished under the Malla dynasty (14th–18th century), when Newar kings competed to build temples, palaces, and monuments of breathtaking beauty. Many of the masterpieces standing today — like the Krishna Mandir (1637 AD) carved entirely from stone — date from this golden age.

The square was badly damaged during the 2015 earthquake, but reconstruction efforts, supported by UNESCO, have restored much of its glory. Wandering here, you’re walking through centuries of resilience and artistry.

Highlights include the Patan Museum (housed in a former royal palace wing), which is internationally acclaimed for its collection of sacred art and detailed curation. Just beyond the square, the Golden Temple (Hiranya Varna Mahavihar) — founded in the 12th century — shines with gilt details and Buddhist symbolism, and is still a living monastery.

Entry to the square is about 1,000 NPR for foreigners, including museum access. Around the square, narrow lanes hide craft workshops, tea shops, and hidden courtyards where daily life unfolds in rhythm with centuries of tradition.

Patan truly earns its name — “City of Beauty” — blending history, spirituality, and living culture in every corner.

Visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau, Poland

Poland was always very close to the top of my bucket travel list, and finally getting there was a dream come true.  I remember it clearly - a train from a Slovak border town north to Krakow in Poland.  

Entrance to Auschwitz

You can easily spend a few hours by the time you've seen both Auschwitz and Birkenau, and while the walk through the grounds felt unreal and eerie, I remember it wasn't until later when I printed my photos, that the weight of what Id seen sank in. And out of everything I saw and took in that day, what's always stayed with me since was the unforgettable image of a baby - one photo out of hundreds, of the many who'd died there.  

Crematorium 

From 1940–1945, over 1.1 million people were murdered here: Jews, Poles, Romani people, Soviet POWs, and others. Birkenau was designed for mass extermination, its gas chambers killing thousands daily. The railway line cutting into the camp, the endless wooden barracks, the barbed wire, the shower cells, the gas chambers and the many piles of personal items including suitcases, reading glasses and even human hair - such a tragic and moving piece of history.

Visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau is confronting, but it’s a place the world must continue to visit. A reminder to humandity, of humanity, at such a dark point in history.