The Catherine Palace, St Petersburg, Russia

 While in St Pete's, we did a side trip to the Catherine Palace.  Of course, its Russia so it didnt disappoint! 

Here's more about it - 

Just 25 kilometers south of St Petersburg lies one of Russia’s most dazzling treasures: the Catherine Palace, a spectacular baroque residence that once served as the summer home of the Russian tsars. Painted in striking shades of blue and white, adorned with gleaming gold statues, and set amid sprawling gardens and water features, the palace is one of the most impressive symbols of Russia’s imperial grandeur. Often associated with Catherine the Great, it was in fact named for Catherine I, the wife of Peter the Great, who first commissioned it in the early 18th century. Over the centuries, the palace evolved into one of the most ornate and luxurious residences in Europe, rivaling Versailles in its magnificence.

The story of the Catherine Palace begins with Catherine I of Russia, the widow of Peter the Great. In 1717 she commissioned a modest summer residence in the village of Tsarskoye Selo (now Pushkin). The original design was simple compared to what the palace would later become. After Catherine’s death, her daughter, Empress Elizabeth, inherited the estate and transformed it into the breathtaking Baroque masterpiece we see today.

It was under Elizabeth’s reign in the mid-18th century that the palace took on its dramatic grandeur. She commissioned the Italian architect Bartolomeo Rastrelli, famous for designing St Petersburg’s Winter Palace, to create a lavish residence that would impress both Russian courtiers and visiting European dignitaries. Rastrelli’s design included a 325-meter-long façade painted in turquoise-blue and white, decorated with gleaming golden ornaments, Atlantes (male statues) and caryatids (female figures), and elaborate gilded cupolas.

When completed in 1756, the palace was a vision of extravagance. It contained hundreds of rooms, lavishly decorated with gilded carvings, mirrors, silk wallpapers, and elaborate parquet floors. Its scale and luxury were meant to showcase Russia’s power and cultural refinement.

Although the palace was built under Empress Elizabeth, it is often associated with Catherine the Great, who ruled Russia from 1762 to 1796. Catherine favored a more restrained classical style, and during her reign, she commissioned several alterations to the palace’s interiors. She employed Scottish architect Charles Cameron to redesign certain rooms in the Neoclassical style, softening some of the Baroque extravagance with cleaner lines, elegant marble, and refined decoration.

Still, the palace retained its overall Baroque splendor, and Catherine continued to use it as a summer residence and a place for lavish entertainments. Under her rule, Tsarskoye Selo became a vibrant cultural and political hub, where philosophers, artists, and statesmen mingled amid glittering balls and banquets.

Perhaps the most famous feature of the Catherine Palace was the legendary Amber Room. Originally created in Prussia in the early 18th century, the Amber Room was presented as a gift to Peter the Great and later installed in the Catherine Palace by Rastrelli. The room was decorated entirely with panels of amber, gold leaf, and mirrors, creating a warm, glowing effect that dazzled visitors.

During World War II, the Amber Room was looted by the Nazis and transported to Königsberg (modern-day Kaliningrad). Its fate remains one of history’s great mysteries, as it disappeared during the final months of the war. Today, a painstakingly reconstructed Amber Room, completed in 2003, allows visitors to experience the magnificence of the original.

The palace is surrounded by the Catherine Park, a vast estate of landscaped gardens, canals, and decorative pavilions. The grounds combine formal, geometric designs typical of French gardens with the more natural, romantic style popular in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Among the highlights are the Great Pond, a large artificial lake reflecting the palace’s blue and gold façade, and the many statues and bridges that dot the grounds. Decorative pavilions such as the Hermitage, the Grotto, and the Turkish Bath showcase the eclectic tastes of Russia’s rulers, who sought to demonstrate cultural sophistication by drawing on architectural styles from across Europe and beyond.

In the summer, the gardens become a popular retreat for both tourists and locals, offering a serene setting in contrast to the bustle of St Petersburg.

The Catherine Palace, like many treasures of Russia, suffered greatly during World War II. When Nazi forces occupied Tsarskoye Selo in 1941, the palace was ransacked and deliberately destroyed. Its interiors were stripped, artworks looted, and parts of the building set ablaze. By the time Soviet forces recaptured the area in 1944, the once-glorious palace was little more than a burned-out shell.

The devastation was so severe that many believed the palace could never be restored. Yet, in the decades following the war, an enormous restoration effort began, led by skilled artisans, architects, and historians. Using surviving photographs, documents, and fragments, they gradually rebuilt the palace room by room. The restoration continues to this day, but many sections have already been returned to their former splendor, allowing visitors to glimpse the grandeur that once defined imperial Russia.

Today, the Catherine Palace is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Russia. Located in the town of Pushkin, it can be reached easily from St Petersburg by train, bus, or organized tours. The palace is open to the public, though access is often limited to guided tours due to the delicate nature of the interiors and the high volume of visitors.

Highlights for visitors include:

• The Great Hall, a vast ballroom lined with mirrors and gilded carvings, where light streams in from rows of windows, creating a dazzling effect.

• The Amber Room, painstakingly reconstructed to showcase its glowing amber panels.

• The series of state rooms, each decorated with silk walls, intricate parquet floors, and ornate ceilings.

• The Catherine Park, where visitors can stroll through gardens, cross elegant bridges, and enjoy views of the palace reflected in the Great Pond.

For many travelers, the experience of standing before the Catherine Palace, with its brilliant blue façade and gilded statues glistening in the sunlight, is unforgettable.

A Symbol of Russia’s Cultural Identity

The Catherine Palace is more than just a tourist attraction; it is a symbol of Russia’s resilience and cultural identity. It embodies the grandeur of the Russian Empire, the artistic achievements of its architects and craftsmen, and the determination of later generations to preserve their heritage despite the ravages of war.

For Russians, the palace represents a connection to a past filled with both glory and tragedy. For international visitors, it offers a window into the richness of Russian history, from the opulence of the tsars to the devastation of conflict and the triumph of restoration.

Conclusion

The Catherine Palace is a masterpiece of architecture, history, and art. Its shimmering blue and white façade, gilded statues, and vast gardens make it one of the most beautiful palaces in the world. Inside, treasures like the Amber Room and the Great Hall remind visitors of the opulence of the Russian court. Outside, the serene gardens provide a place for reflection.

Though scarred by war, the palace has been reborn through decades of painstaking restoration, standing today as a testament to resilience and cultural pride. For anyone visiting St Petersburg, a journey to the Catherine Palace is essential—a chance to walk through history, marvel at human artistry, and witness the enduring beauty of one of Russia’s greatest imperial landmarks.

The Cathedral of St. Catherine in Tsarskoye Selo

Standing in the shadow of the grand Catherine Palace, the Cathedral of St. Catherine the Great Martyr offers a very different kind of beauty: spiritual, serene, and steeped in Russian Orthodoxy. Located in the town of Pushkin (formerly Tsarskoye Selo), just outside St Petersburg, the cathedral complements the palace with its gleaming white walls and golden domes, symbolizing the close intertwining of imperial life and faith in Russia.

The original cathedral was constructed between 1835 and 1840 during the reign of Nicholas I, designed by architect Konstantin Thon, who also created the Cathedral of Christ the Savior in Moscow. Built in the Russo-Byzantine style, it stood proudly as the spiritual heart of Tsarskoye Selo, where both courtiers and townspeople gathered to worship. Its interior was richly decorated with icons, frescoes, and ornate iconostases, creating a sacred atmosphere in contrast to the dazzling secular grandeur of the palace next door.

Tragically, the cathedral did not survive the upheavals of the 20th century. In 1939, during the Soviet campaign against religion, the cathedral was demolished, leaving only memories and photographs of its former glory. For decades, the site stood empty.

In the early 21st century, however, the decision was made to rebuild the cathedral, honoring both its architectural heritage and its spiritual significance. Completed in 2010, the modern Cathedral of St. Catherine faithfully recreates the original design, complete with its five gilded domes and striking façade. Inside, new icons and frescoes once again fill the space with light and color, reviving its role as a center of worship and community.

Today, the cathedral stands alongside the Catherine Palace as a reminder that Tsarskoye Selo was not only a place of imperial power and luxury, but also of faith, resilience, and renewal.

Moscow, Russia

 Again, back to 2002 Im sure.. Trip to Russia! Finally! A dream come true!  Its been the only time Ive ever done an organised tour, and it was totally worth it to do so.  It was 2 weeks and went Saint Petersburg to Moscow and back to Saint Petersburg, with other stops on the way.  

Of course Moscow was thrilling - from the famous Gum shopping centre, to Red Square and even the metro stations - as beautiful as they are... amazing to see in real life.  And of course no trip to Moscow would be complete without seeing the Kremlin. 

The tea and samovar museum was kinda cool too! I saw the mothership of the & Sisters buildings, had a look at some shops and a good general wander around. 

Heres a bit more about all of those things and Moscow itself - 

The Kremlin

Moscow, Russia’s sprawling capital, is a city where history and modernity sit side by side in dramatic fashion. With a population of over 12 million, it is one of Europe’s largest and most influential cities, known for its cultural richness, political weight, and unique architecture. For travelers, Moscow offers both the grandeur of imperial monuments and the austere echoes of Soviet history. At its heart lie some of the most recognizable landmarks in the world: Red Square, the Kremlin, and the colorful domes of St Basil’s Cathedral. Beyond these icons, the city also reveals subtler charms, like its long traditions of tea drinking and ornate department stores.

Almost every journey to Moscow begins at Red Square, the vast cobbled expanse that has witnessed centuries of history. Originally a market square, it evolved into a stage for state ceremonies, military parades, and moments that defined the Soviet Union. Today, Red Square is surrounded by some of the most significant buildings in Moscow, each telling its own story of power, religion, commerce, and ideology.

The Kremlin

On one side looms the Kremlin, the fortified complex that remains the political center of Russia. On another, the soaring colors and twisting onion domes of St Basil’s Cathedral grab every visitor’s eye. Opposite the Kremlin sits the massive façade of GUM, the grand shopping arcade often mistaken for a palace, while at the square’s edge lies Lenin’s Mausoleum, stark and dark, housing the preserved body of the Soviet leader. Together, these landmarks make Red Square not just a place to see, but a place to feel—the weight of Russia’s past and present in a single view.

Few structures in the world are as instantly recognizable as St Basil’s Cathedral, officially known as the Cathedral of the Intercession of the Most Holy Theotokos on the Moat. Commissioned by Ivan the Terrible in the 16th century to commemorate the conquest of Kazan, the cathedral is a masterpiece of Russian architecture. Its nine chapels, each topped with a vividly painted dome, create a surreal, almost dreamlike vision.

Legends say that Ivan blinded the architect, Postnik Yakovlev, to ensure he could never design anything as beautiful again. While the truth of that tale is debated, there is no denying the cathedral’s power to captivate. Inside, visitors find a labyrinth of narrow corridors, small chapels, and frescoes in warm reds and golds. Unlike the soaring open spaces of Western cathedrals, St Basil’s charms through intimacy, detail, and the surprise of discovery.

Standing before it, one feels not only the artistry of medieval Russia but also the weight of centuries of faith and empire that shaped the country.

The Moscow Kremlin dominates the city both physically and symbolically. Surrounded by red-brick walls and watchtowers, this vast complex has served as the seat of Russian power since the late Middle Ages. Today, it remains the official residence of the president of Russia, while also functioning as a museum and UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Inside the Kremlin, visitors encounter an astonishing collection of buildings: golden-domed cathedrals, the Grand Kremlin Palace, and the Armory Chamber with its treasure trove of jewels, icons, and Fabergé eggs. Cathedral Square, with its cluster of white stone churches, evokes the Russia of tsars and patriarchs. The sense of history here is overwhelming—this is where rulers were crowned, where church bells rang out across the city, and where crucial decisions that shaped world history were made.

A walk along the Kremlin walls offers panoramic views of Moscow, while the interiors reveal both opulence and severity. It is at once a fortress, a palace, and a living symbol of Russian statehood.

Just steps from the Kremlin stands one of the most unusual attractions in Moscow: Lenin’s Mausoleum. Often referred to informally as Lenin’s “catacomb,” this granite and marble structure houses the embalmed body of Vladimir Lenin, the leader of the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917. Since his death in 1924, Lenin has lain in a glass sarcophagus, a figure of reverence for some and curiosity for others.

Visiting the mausoleum is a surreal experience. Strict silence is enforced as visitors shuffle past the body, preserved in eerie stillness. Once, millions of Soviet citizens came here to pay respects; today, it is more a place of historical fascination than veneration. Yet it remains one of the most distinctive reminders of the Soviet era and its cult of leadership.

St Basil's Cathedral

Directly opposite the Kremlin, the GUM department store (often mistaken for “Gym” due to its Cyrillic name) dominates Red Square with its vast, ornate façade. Built in the 19th century, GUM is as much an architectural wonder as a shopping destination. Its iron and glass roof arches high above three long galleries filled with boutiques, cafés, and fountains.

During Soviet times, GUM was one of the few places where ordinary citizens could purchase consumer goods, though long queues often snaked through the building. Today, it is home to luxury brands, but it remains a beloved space for Muscovites and tourists alike. Strolling its corridors is as much about admiring the design as it is about shopping.

In the winter months GUM is decorated with lights and festive displays. In contrast to the austere granite of Lenin’s Mausoleum nearby, GUM’s bright and airy interior feels almost celebratory—a reminder that Moscow is a city of contrasts.

Beyond the monumental landmarks, Moscow also preserves smaller cultural treasures such as the Tea and Samovar Museum. Tea drinking has been central to Russian life for centuries, and the samovar—an ornate metal urn used to heat water—has become a national symbol of hospitality.  Who knew there were so many samovar options availalble? 

The museum, located in a charming 19th-century merchant’s house, displays dozens of antique samovars, ranging from simple copper vessels to elaborately decorated pieces of art. Exhibits explain the evolution of tea culture in Russia, how caravans brought tea from China across Siberia, and how the ritual of gathering around the samovar became embedded in Russian family life.

For visitors, the museum offers not just history but also a sensory experience: the aroma of tea, the glint of polished metal, and sometimes the chance to taste a freshly brewed cup in the traditional style. It provides an intimate counterpoint to Moscow’s grander attractions, showing the everyday culture that sustained Russian life through turbulent centuries.

Exploring Moscow means moving between layers of history. One moment you are standing in the medieval wonder of St Basil’s, the next you are confronting the stark Soviet legacy of Lenin’s Mausoleum. The Kremlin’s cathedrals speak of tsars and empires, while GUM’s glass-roofed arcades suggest commerce and modern consumerism. Even the Tea and Samovar Museum, modest compared to Red Square’s giants, adds to this tapestry of experiences.

Red Square, Moscow

Moscow is not a city that reveals itself all at once. Its vast avenues, monumental Soviet architecture, glittering metro stations, and hidden courtyards require time to explore. Yet at its heart, around Red Square, the essence of Russia is distilled: faith and power, ideology and art, tradition and modernity.

For travelers, Moscow can be overwhelming in scale and complex in meaning. But it is precisely this blend of grandeur and humanity that makes the city unforgettable. Standing on Red Square, with St Basil’s vibrant domes before you, the Kremlin’s walls behind you, GUM glowing to the side, and Lenin’s tomb in shadow, you realize you are at the crossroads of centuries of history. 

Stutthof & Majdanek Death Camps, Poland

 On a road trip one summer in Poland with a good friend, we visited both Stutthof and Majdanek death camps.  Both still have a lot of remains there from the actual camp buildings, housing and chambers and even left over belongings of prisoners. Again, crazy slice from history left as is, and made into incredible, sombre museums. 

Majdanek, located on the outskirts of Lublin in eastern Poland, is one of the most chilling Holocaust sites still standing today. Unlike other camps that were largely destroyed by the Nazis in an attempt to hide their crimes, Majdanek was liberated almost intact by the Soviet Army in July 1944. Because of this, visitors today can see original barracks, guard towers, crematoria, and even personal belongings left behind by victims, making Majdanek one of the most hauntingly preserved reminders of Nazi atrocities.

History and Purpose
Majdanek was established in late 1941 as a prisoner-of-war camp, but soon it evolved into a concentration and extermination camp under Operation Reinhard, the Nazi plan to annihilate the Jews of occupied Poland. Over time, Majdanek became a multipurpose camp, housing political prisoners, Jews, Poles, and Soviet POWs.

It is estimated that around 150,000 people passed through Majdanek, of whom approximately 78,000 were murdered—59,000 of them Jews. Victims died through mass executions, disease, starvation, and gassing in chambers fueled by Zyklon B and carbon monoxide. In November 1943, the camp was the site of “Operation Harvest Festival” (Aktion Erntefest), the largest single-day massacre of Jews during the Holocaust, when over 18,000 prisoners were shot in trenches in a single day.

Preservation and Memory
Because the camp was not demolished before liberation, Majdanek offers one of the most authentic Holocaust sites in existence. Visitors can walk through wooden barracks once crammed with prisoners, see the gas chambers, and visit the crematoria. Perhaps the most shocking site is the mausoleum at the end of the camp, which contains a mound of human ashes collected after liberation, a stark testament to the industrial scale of murder.

Location and Visiting Today
Majdanek lies just 3 kilometers from the center of Lublin, making it one of the easiest Nazi camps to visit. The museum and memorial complex is free of charge and includes exhibitions of personal items, shoes, photographs, and testimonies. The site’s authenticity can be overwhelming, but it is one of the most important places of Holocaust remembrance in Europe.

Majdanek’s preservation means it speaks directly to visitors: the barbed wire, rows of watchtowers, and the ashes left behind demand reflection and remembrance. It is both a graveyard and a historical archive, ensuring that the victims’ suffering will never be forgotten.

Stutthof Death Camp: The First and the Last

Stutthof, located near the Baltic coast east of Gdańsk (formerly Danzig), was the first concentration camp established by the Nazis outside German borders and one of the last to be liberated. Its history reflects both the early expansion of Nazi persecution and the persistence of brutality until the very end of the war.

Origins and Expansion
Stutthof was opened on September 2, 1939, just one day after the German invasion of Poland. Initially, it was a small camp for Polish political prisoners, intellectuals, and resistance members. Over time, it expanded into a large concentration and extermination camp, complete with gas chambers and crematoria. Prisoners came from across Europe, including Jews deported from the Baltic states, Hungary, and other Nazi-occupied regions.

By 1942, Stutthof had become part of the wider network of Nazi camps and included dozens of subcamps. Prisoners were forced into slave labor for German industries, shipyards, and agriculture. Conditions were appalling: overcrowding, starvation, disease, and brutal punishments caused high death rates even outside of the organized mass killings.

Extermination and Suffering
Stutthof operated both as a concentration and extermination camp. In 1944, gas chambers were added to increase the killing capacity, and Zyklon B was introduced. It is estimated that around 110,000 people were imprisoned in Stutthof during the war, and about 65,000 perished there. Victims included Jews, Poles, Soviet POWs, and people from over 25 countries.

As the Red Army advanced in 1945, the Nazis evacuated the camp in brutal “death marches.” Thousands died along the way due to exposure, exhaustion, and executions. Stutthof was finally liberated by Soviet forces on May 9, 1945, making it one of the last camps to be freed.

Location and Visiting Today
The Stutthof Museum and Memorial now occupies the site, about 34 kilometers east of Gdańsk. Visitors can tour the preserved wooden barracks, guard towers, crematoria, and reconstructed gas chamber. Exhibits display personal belongings, documents, and photographs that illustrate the lives of prisoners. A striking monument commemorates the victims, standing as a reminder of the atrocities committed.

Stutthof is unique because of its timeline: it was both the first camp established in occupied Poland and one of the last to close. Its story demonstrates the continuity of Nazi persecution, from the earliest days of the war to its bitter end.

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Treblinka & Płazow Death Camps, Poland

 I was always interested in WWII, always. Iv been to 6 or 7 death camps in Poland and Europe.  Two in Poland that dont have many remains left, but serve as open air museums still are Treblinkan near the Poland and Ukraine border, and Płazow, on the outskirts of Krakow. 

Płazow only has a cross with barbed wire on it as the memorial, but you can sit in a cafe nearby and also see where Oscar Schindler's factory was located.  (See the movie Schindler's List if you haven't already)

Cafe near Schindler's factory, Krakow

Heres a bit about each camp: 

Located in the remote forests of eastern Poland, Treblinka was one of the most notorious Nazi death camps during World War II. 

Treblinka was established in 1941, initially as a labor camp. However, in 1942, under the framework of Operation Reinhard—the Nazi plan to exterminate Jews in occupied Poland—the site was expanded and converted into an extermination camp. Treblinka quickly became one of the deadliest facilities in Nazi-occupied Europe.

Between July 1942 and October 1943, it is estimated that around 870,000 people, mostly Jews deported from the Warsaw Ghetto and other parts of occupied Poland, were murdered there. Victims arrived by train, were told they were being resettled, and were quickly led to gas chambers disguised as showers. The killing process was ruthlessly efficient, designed to leave little trace of life or humanity.

In August 1943, a prisoner uprising broke out with inmates setting fire to buildings and attempting to escape. Though most were captured and executed, around 200 managed to survive, a rare act of resistance amid overwhelming brutality. After the revolt, the Nazis dismantled the camp, plowing over the land and planting trees to conceal the evidence.

Location
Treblinka is located about 80 kilometers northeast of Warsaw, near the small village of Treblinka in the Masovian region of Poland. Its secluded position in dense woodland was deliberately chosen by the Nazis to hide the atrocities. 

The Treblinka Museum and Memorial stands on the site, divided into two parts: Treblinka I, the former labor camp, and Treblinka II, the extermination camp. Very little of the original camp remains - a central monument, erected in 1964, represents a shattered stone tower, surrounded by 17,000 stones of varying sizes, each representing destroyed Jewish communities. At the museum, visitors can learn about the camp’s history, see personal items left behind, and study photographs and documents that shed light on the victims’ stories.

How to Get There
From Warsaw, Treblinka can be reached in several ways. By train, travelers can take a route toward Małkinia station, which lies about 12 kilometers from the memorial. From Małkinia, taxis or local transport can take you to the site. Alternatively, guided tours often provide direct transport from Warsaw. By car, the journey takes around 1.5 to 2 hours, following the route through Wyszków and Ostrów Mazowiecka.

Just a short distance from Kraków’s historic city center lies the site of Płaszów, a former Nazi concentration camp that serves as a stark reminder of the Holocaust. Today, the area is a vast open field with few remnants of its terrible past, but its story is forever tied to the destruction of Kraków’s Jewish community and the remarkable actions of Oskar Schindler, whose story became world-famous through the film Schindler’s List.

History of Płaszów
The camp was established in 1942 on the grounds of two Jewish cemeteries in the district of Płaszów, south of Kraków. Initially it functioned as a forced labor camp, where Jews from the nearby Kraków Ghetto and surrounding towns were deported. Following the liquidation of the Kraków Ghetto in March 1943, thousands of men, women, and children were sent directly to Płaszów.

Conditions in the camp were brutal. Prisoners were subjected to starvation, forced labor in quarries and workshops, and arbitrary executions. The camp’s notorious commandant, Amon Göth, became infamous for his sadism; survivors recounted how he would shoot prisoners at random from the balcony of his villa overlooking the camp.

Płazow Death Camp Memorial

By 1944, Płaszów had been converted into a formal concentration camp under the authority of the SS. Tens of thousands passed through its gates, with many sent on to extermination camps such as Auschwitz-Birkenau. Death within Płaszów itself was constant, whether through execution, disease, or overwork.

Oskar Schindler and the Legacy of Rescue
Amidst this cruelty, the story of Oskar Schindler shines as an extraordinary act of humanity. Schindler was a German industrialist who ran an enamelware factory in Kraków, later expanding to an armaments factory. Using his connections and bribes, he employed Jewish workers from Płaszów, shielding them from deportation and certain death.

When the Nazis began shutting down Płaszów in 1944, Schindler arranged for his workforce—over 1,000 men, women, and children—to be transferred to his new factory in Brünnlitz, in what is now the Czech Republic. There, they survived the war. His “Schindlerjuden” became symbols of resilience, and his actions were later immortalized in Thomas Keneally’s novel Schindler’s Ark and Steven Spielberg’s 1993 film Schindler’s List. Many scenes of the film were shot in Kraków and around the remains of Płaszów, cementing the camp’s place in global memory.

The site of the former camp lies about 5 kilometers south of Kraków’s Old Town, accessible by tram, bus, or taxi. Unlike Auschwitz or Majdanek, Płaszów has no preserved barracks or gas chambers. After the war, most of the camp structures were dismantled, and the area returned to open land. Today, the site is a quiet, grassy expanse punctuated by memorials.

Among these are a giant stone monument dedicated to the victims, erected in the 1960s, and smaller plaques that mark mass grave sites. Visitors often describe the place as eerily empty, its silence carrying a weight equal to preserved camps. Standing here, one can imagine the vast roll-calls, the suffering of prisoners, and the horrors carried out under Göth’s command.

Warsaw & Krakow, Poland

 Poland, one of my big four to do - and it didnt disappoint either time. I went there for two summers back in 01/02 and taught English at a private school in the north-east - Ostrołęka and Pułtusk.  Very fond memories of such an amazing place! 

And plenty of tripping around and seeing a lot of the sights.  Heres a little about Warsaw and Krakow. 

Poland’s two most famous cities, Kraków and Warsaw, showcase very different sides of the country’s history and spirit. Kraków, the former royal capital, is known for its medieval beauty and cultural depth, while Warsaw, the present-day capital, reflects resilience, rebirth, and modern ambition.

Kraków’s crown jewel is Wawel Castle, perched on a hill overlooking the Vistula River. This vast complex, dating back to the 14th century, was once the seat of Polish kings and queens. Within its walls are a cathedral, royal chambers, armories, and museums filled with treasures collected over centuries. The castle’s Renaissance courtyard is one of the finest in Europe, while Wawel Cathedral holds the tombs of Poland’s monarchs and national heroes. To stroll here is to walk through the heart of Polish identity and pride. Beyond the castle, Kraków enchants with its vast Main Market Square, the largest medieval square in Europe, flanked by the Cloth Hall and the towering St. Mary’s Basilica. Despite Poland’s turbulent past, Kraków was largely spared from destruction in World War II, leaving its Old Town remarkably intact.

Warsaw tells a very different story. Nearly flattened during the war, the city had to rebuild almost entirely from ruins. The painstaking reconstruction of the Old Town, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a testament to Polish determination. But Warsaw also embraced the chance to modernize, mixing skyscrapers with historic palaces and leafy parks. Rising above the skyline is the Palace of Culture and Science, one of the so-called “Seven Sisters” built under Stalin’s direction across the Soviet Union and Eastern Europe. Completed in 1955, it remains the tallest building in Poland at 237 meters. Once controversial as a symbol of Soviet dominance, today it houses theaters, museums, cinemas, and an observation deck offering sweeping views of the capital.

Together, Kraków and Warsaw capture Poland’s layered story: one city a preserved jewel of the past, the other a living symbol of resilience and adaptation.

Lithuania - 4 Times

 Back in the early 2000s I spent time working as an english teacher in Poland - and all my visa renewals I did in Lithuania.  The capital, Vilnius, is where I spent most of my time but I managed to get to the coast and explore a little more of the country and see cool things like the Hill of Crosses. 

Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, is a city where history and creativity meet at every corner. Nestled at the confluence of the Vilnia and Neris rivers, Vilnius has been a cultural crossroads for centuries. Its Old Town, one of the largest in Europe, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, famed for its labyrinth of cobbled streets, baroque churches, and pastel-colored townhouses. Walking through it feels like stepping back in time, with Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture blending seamlessly.

The city’s history stretches back to the 14th century, when Grand Duke Gediminas established Vilnius as the capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Over the centuries, it became a hub of trade, culture, and learning. It has also endured hardship, from wars and occupations to the devastation of its once-thriving Jewish community during World War II. Today, Vilnius embraces this complex past while projecting a vibrant, youthful energy.

Modern Vilnius is known for its thriving arts scene and creative neighborhoods. The bohemian district of Užupis, often compared to Montmartre in Paris, has declared itself an independent republic with its own whimsical constitution. Street art, quirky cafes, and artisan shops spill across its narrow streets, making it a must-see for visitors seeking Vilnius’s playful side.

The city is also green and welcoming, with open squares, riverside paths, and panoramic views from spots like Gediminas Tower or the Hill of Three Crosses. Museums such as the National Museum of Lithuania and the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights provide deeper insights into the country’s journey.

Vilnius is accessible, affordable, and endlessly walkable. Whether you’re admiring the baroque masterpiece of St. Peter and Paul’s Church, sipping coffee in Cathedral Square, or exploring the lively nightlife, Lithuania’s capital offers a mix of old-world charm and modern vibrancy that lingers long after you leave.The Hill of Crosses, or Kryžių Kalnas, is one of Lithuania’s most powerful symbols of faith and resilience. Located about 12 kilometers north of the city of Šiauliai, this site is unlike anywhere else in the world. From a distance, it appears to be a grassy mound, but as you approach, the scale becomes clear—hundreds of thousands of crosses, rosaries, crucifixes, and statues crowd together, creating a striking landscape of devotion.

The origins of the Hill of Crosses date back to the 19th century, after the 1831 Uprising against the Russian Empire. Families began placing crosses on the hill to honor those who had died or disappeared. Over time, it grew into a place of pilgrimage, particularly during Soviet rule, when religious expression was suppressed. The Soviets bulldozed the site several times, but locals continually replaced the crosses, often under the cover of night. By the time Lithuania regained independence in 1991, the hill had become a powerful symbol of endurance and faith.

Today, estimates suggest there are well over 100,000 crosses on the hill, though the number is constantly growing as visitors from around the world continue to add their own. The site is free to visit and open year-round. Pilgrims and tourists alike bring crosses, small and large, inscribed with prayers, names, or messages of hope.

The Hill of Crosses is not only a national shrine but also a recognized site of Catholic pilgrimage. In 1993, Pope John Paul II visited and celebrated Mass there, further cementing its international significance.

Visitors typically reach the hill from Šiauliai, with buses and tours making the short journey. It’s best to allow at least an hour to walk among the paths, take in the solemn atmosphere, and leave your own cross if you wish.

The coastal town of Klaipėda, Lithuania’s only seaport city, sits on the Baltic coast where the Dane River meets the Curonian Lagoon. With its maritime heritage, cobblestoned old town, and proximity to stunning natural landscapes, Klaipėda offers visitors a fascinating mix of history and seaside charm.

Founded in 1252 by the Teutonic Knights, the city was originally known as Memel and has long been a contested hub between Germanic and Baltic powers. Its architecture reflects this layered past, with timber-framed German-style houses sitting alongside Soviet-era blocks and modern developments. For centuries, Klaipėda was part of Prussia and later Germany, only becoming part of Lithuania in 1923 after Lithuanian forces staged the Klaipėda Revolt. This was short-lived, however: in March 1939, Adolf Hitler visited the city personally to mark Nazi Germany’s annexation of Klaipėda and the wider region. It was the last territorial expansion before the outbreak of World War II.

Today, Klaipėda embraces its complicated history while presenting itself as a lively port town. The Old Town features atmospheric squares like Theatre Square, home to the statue of “Ännchen von Tharau,” a nod to the city’s German past. The Curonian Spit, a UNESCO World Heritage Site shared with Russia’s Kaliningrad region, is easily accessible from Klaipėda and offers visitors endless sand dunes, pine forests, and quiet fishing villages.

Klaipėda is also the gateway to Lithuania’s summer escapes. Ferries connect the mainland to the Curonian Spit, while the city itself bustles with festivals, street markets, and a growing arts scene. Visitors can explore the Lithuanian Sea Museum and Dolphinarium, stroll along the harbor, or enjoy the fresh catch of the day in a seaside café.

Compact, walkable, and steeped in maritime tradition, Klaipėda is both a reminder of Lithuania’s turbulent past and a vibrant hub for exploring the Baltic coast.

Grūtas Park, often nicknamed “Stalin’s World,” is one of Lithuania’s most unusual and thought-provoking attractions. Located near the spa town of Druskininkai in southern Lithuania, the park was established in 2001 by businessman Viliumas Malinauskas. Its purpose is to preserve and display relics of the Soviet era, allowing visitors to confront Lithuania’s difficult past under communist rule.

The park is home to over 80 statues and monuments that once dominated public spaces during the Soviet period. These include imposing figures of Lenin, Stalin, and other communist leaders, as well as busts, plaques, and Soviet propaganda art. After Lithuania regained independence in 1990, most of these symbols were removed from cities and towns, but Grūtas Park became a place where they could be preserved in context rather than destroyed.

Spread across a large, forested area, the park is designed to feel like a journey into the past. Visitors walk along boardwalks and trails, passing guard towers and barbed-wire fences reminiscent of a Soviet labor camp. A small museum on-site displays documents, photographs, and everyday items from the communist period, offering deeper insight into how Lithuanians lived under the Soviet system.

While the subject matter is heavy, the park also incorporates lighter elements, such as a playground, a mini-zoo, and cafes, making it accessible to families. Still, the overall experience encourages reflection on history and remembrance of the struggles faced by Lithuanians under Soviet control.

Today, Grūtas Park attracts both locals and international visitors interested in history, politics, and memory. It stands as a reminder of how far Lithuania has come since regaining independence, while ensuring that the lessons of its Soviet past are not forgotten.Though Iv been to all the Baltic states, Lithuania was where I spent the most time and had the most visits. 

A Year Ago, Id Just Finished A Summer In Svalbard, The Arctic

 Another dream came true! I got to work in the Arctic, in Svalbard.  This island had had me curious for quite a few years.  I came close to getting there in 2020, but we all know how that era turned out.  

Last year, after my 5th season in Antarctica, I was googling jobs in Svalbard, found one, applied, video interviewed, got the offer and accepted.

The hotel I was cooking in is around 100km out of the capital, Longyearbyen. It can be reached by ski mobile at the start of the season, before the melt, or by boat when its warmer.  My trip out was by boat.  

Stunning scenery, masses of wildlife, interesting food options, beautiful views from every window... So grateful and thankful for an amazing experience! 

Saw the global seed vault up close and personal, did a cruise right up to the north of the archipelago, visited the Russian settlements of Pyramiden and Barentsburg, saw around 14 polar bears... I mean, it really is a very very special place.  

One thing to take away is the threat of polar bears is very real.  We never stepped out of the hotel without a stun gun that had 3 stun rounds and one flare, and for further afield, which was only just going outside of the immediate buildings, we took a loaded .308.  You see people all over town carrying rifle, theres signs in shops to remember to leave your rifle outside the establishment etc.  The number one rule regarding polar bears remains though - first step is to retreat. 

And from AI - Svalbard is a Norwegian archipelago in the high Arctic, about halfway between mainland Norway and the North Pole. First used by European whalers in the 1600s, it later became a hub for coal mining in the 19th and 20th centuries. The Svalbard Treaty of 1920 recognized Norwegian sovereignty but gave citizens of signatory countries equal rights to engage in economic activity there—why Russia still maintains a mining settlement at Barentsburg today. Longyearbyen, the main town, evolved from a coal-mining base into a small international community focused on science, tourism, and Arctic logistics.

What makes Svalbard unique is its extremes: 24-hour daylight in summer, months of polar night in winter, and a population of just 2,500 from over 50 nationalities. Beyond coal, its economy now leans on Arctic research, adventure tourism, and environmental monitoring. It’s home to the Global Seed Vault, built to safeguard the world’s crop diversity, and its fragile ecosystems face the fastest rates of warming on Earth. With glaciers, reindeer, and the ever-present polar bear, Svalbard stands at the intersection of history, science, and survival in the far north.