Sa’dabad Palace Complex, Tehran, Iran

2008 was my first of 4 trips to Iran, each for work but in down time on that first trip, I visited the Sa’dabad Palace Complex in northern Tehran. Spanning 110 hectares with 18 palaces and museums, it was first established by the Qajar dynasty and later expanded under the Pahlavis. Sitting at the foot of the Alborz Mountains near Darband, the setting is as grand as the history.

The highlight of my visit was the White Palace (Mellat Palace), the largest building in the complex. Built in the 1930s by Reza Shah Pahlavi, it features 54 rooms across two floors. The palace’s interiors reflect a blend of modern European influences and traditional Persian craftsmanship: vast reception halls, crystal chandeliers, intricate carpets, and artworks collected from around the world - I remember thinking at the the time that it would be an amazing setting for a house party!

This was the official residence of Mohammad Reza Shah (the last Shah of Iran) and Farah Diba, where royal banquets and diplomatic receptions were hosted. After the 1979 Islamic Revolution, the monarchy was overthrown, and the palace was converted into a museum. Today, it’s one of the most visited attractions in Tehran, offering a glimpse into Iran’s royal past and its dramatic political shift.  What an awesome slice of history to see up close and personally.

Location: Darband, northern Tehran
Built: 1930s by Reza Shah
Size: 54 rooms, 2 floors, 5,000m² floor area
Complex: Sa’dabad – 110 hectares, 18 palaces
After 1979: Converted into public museums

The Golden Temple – Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, Kathmandu

Just a few steps from Patan Durbar Square, tucked into the busy lanes of Lalitpur, lies the Golden Temple (Hiranya Varna Mahavihar) — one of the most sacred Buddhist monasteries in the Kathmandu Valley.  Don't expect to see a literal golden temple from the street though, like I did - there's a black entrance, a small courtyard and then you walk through and archway and are at the actual Golden Temple.

This monastery was founded in the 12th century and is still an active place of worship. Its nickname comes from the dazzling gilded façade, statues, and metalwork that decorate the courtyard and shrine. The temple houses a striking golden image of Shakyamuni Buddha, alongside statues of Avalokiteshvara and Tara, watched over by guardian deities at every corner.  There seemed to be no shortage of hawkers at each corner too, but I did what I do with all hawkers and kept on walking.  

Street view of the Temple Entrance

Despite being centuries old, the temple remains alive with rituals and daily worship. The monastery is cared for by a community of Newar Buddhist priests, and every morning you’ll find devotees offering butter lamps, rice, and prayers.

The temple complex itself is small, but layered with history — intricate carvings, prayer wheels, and ornate toranas (gateways) show the unique fusion of Hindu and Buddhist traditions that defines Newar culture. Inside, photography is restricted, but the atmosphere — incense, chants, flickering lamps — stays with you long after, and I had no issue getting any of the photos or videos that I got.

Entry is modest at 100 NPR for foreigners, and the quick walk to the temple is easy to combine with a visit to Patan Museum and Durbar Square.

Patan Durbar Square, Kathmandu

Today I visited Patan Durbar Square in Lalitpur (Patan), just across the Bagmati River from Kathmandu. 

This UNESCO World Heritage Site was once the royal palace of the Malla kings, and it truly feels like stepping into a living museum. The square is filled with exquisite Newar architecture — tiered temples, courtyards, shrines, and intricate wood carvings that tell centuries-old stories. 

Patan’s roots go back to the 3rd century BC, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. The square itself flourished under the Malla dynasty (14th–18th century), when Newar kings competed to build temples, palaces, and monuments of breathtaking beauty. Many of the masterpieces standing today — like the Krishna Mandir (1637 AD) carved entirely from stone — date from this golden age.

The square was badly damaged during the 2015 earthquake, but reconstruction efforts, supported by UNESCO, have restored much of its glory. Wandering here, you’re walking through centuries of resilience and artistry.

Highlights include the Patan Museum (housed in a former royal palace wing), which is internationally acclaimed for its collection of sacred art and detailed curation. Just beyond the square, the Golden Temple (Hiranya Varna Mahavihar) — founded in the 12th century — shines with gilt details and Buddhist symbolism, and is still a living monastery.

Entry to the square is about 1,000 NPR for foreigners, including museum access. Around the square, narrow lanes hide craft workshops, tea shops, and hidden courtyards where daily life unfolds in rhythm with centuries of tradition.

Patan truly earns its name — “City of Beauty” — blending history, spirituality, and living culture in every corner.

Visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau, Poland

Poland was always very close to the top of my bucket travel list, and finally getting there was a dream come true.  I remember it clearly - a train from a Slovak border town north to Krakow in Poland.  

Entrance to Auschwitz

You can easily spend a few hours by the time you've seen both Auschwitz and Birkenau, and while the walk through the grounds felt unreal and eerie, I remember it wasn't until later when I printed my photos, that the weight of what Id seen sank in. And out of everything I saw and took in that day, what's always stayed with me since was the unforgettable image of a baby - one photo out of hundreds, of the many who'd died there.  

Crematorium 

From 1940–1945, over 1.1 million people were murdered here: Jews, Poles, Romani people, Soviet POWs, and others. Birkenau was designed for mass extermination, its gas chambers killing thousands daily. The railway line cutting into the camp, the endless wooden barracks, the barbed wire, the shower cells, the gas chambers and the many piles of personal items including suitcases, reading glasses and even human hair - such a tragic and moving piece of history.

Visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau is confronting, but it’s a place the world must continue to visit. A reminder to humandity, of humanity, at such a dark point in history.  

Whats It Like Living and Working in the Falkland Islands?

Last summer I made another long journey south, again for work, only this time to a new frontier for me -  the Falkland Islands, a British Overseas Territory made up of East and West Falkland and about 200 smaller islands.

King Penguins - Falkland Islands

True to my style, I found the job advertised on a Falkland Islands job page I had joined on Facebook — so I applied, got it, confirmed it and off I went after a brief break from my Svalbard contract! The job was for cooking on Carcass Island, a privately owned (like most of the islands there) gem in the northwest of the archipelago. Carcass has no roads, no shops, and no permanent settlement beyond the lodge, which was a farm house in its heyday.  Most of the island offering accommodation in the Falklands have a similar set up, and there's something unique and homely about staying in such buildings.  The Falklands are known for incredible wildlife, both bird and mammal, including 3 types of penguin, caracaras, albatross, elephant seals, dolphins and whales — and sweeping, untouched beaches with crystal clear waters and rugged coastlines.  Carcass has large elephant seal populations, megallanec and jackass penguins and plenty of birds from geese, to ducks to wrens.  Its one of the few islands thats never suffered the presence of cats, so not only are there plenty of birds, theyre also not afraid and some will get close and comfortable enough to even land on you.

Gentoo Penguins, Sunrise

The rugged coastline, South Atlantic Ocean, FI

The summer season runs from October to April, when cruise ships bound for Antarctica stop by and small groups of nature-loving tourists fly in. Most visit specifically for the wildlife: and many make return trips. Some of the cruise ships even anchor at Carcass Island for a few hours so that their guests can explore and if their booking includes morning or afternoon tea - then well get up to 300 people visiting us in the lodge for morning or afternoon tea - which I cater for.  

Cormorants, Carcass Island

Elephant Seals, Carcass Island

Most non-cruise ship guests, the bulk of visitors, stay 2–3 nights at the lodge, and we can host a maximum of 16 people at a time. Breakfasts and dinners are catered for by me and a packed lunch prepared for them to take out on their day of exploring - hiking, birdwatching, and photography. Everyone arrives and departs with FIGAS on their little 8-seater planes that connect the islands.

Visitors came from all over the globe, but mostly the UK, US, Germany, and a few adventurous South Americans.
The Falklands themselves have a tiny population of just over 3,500, sustained by fishing, sheep farming, and tourism. Due to the invasion from Argentina in the 80s, there’s also a strong UK defence presence. To get there, you can fly once a week via Chile (Santiago → Punta Arenas → Mount Pleasant) or on the RAF airbridge from the UK.

Vultures

Kelp Goose & Chick

Upland Goose at Sunrise

There's something very special and unique about the Falklands, so much so that Ill be returning for a second summer season this October - bring it!

Visiting Scotts Hut at Cape Evans, Antarctica

 As part of the New Zealand Antarctic programme, those of us involved are usually lucky enough to get out to the historic huts of Shackleton and Scott at least once before the sea ice gets too thin.  This trip down, I only made it to Evans but theres no disappointment in that, I feel very blessed to have visited a second time!  And, like the first time I went, its a totally amazing, magical and awe-inspiring experience that almost leaves me speechless. 

I could post pages of photos but Ive left it fairly simple.  

This is Scott's Hut, a testament to the courage, determination, and tragedy of Captain Robert Falcon Scott's ill-fated Terra Nova Expedition of 1910-1913.

- **Terra Nova Expedition (1910-1913):** Led by Captain Robert Falcon Scott, the British expedition aimed to be the first to reach the geographic South Pole.

- **Race to the South Pole:** Scott's team faced fierce competition from Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen. Tragically, they arrived at the Pole on January 17, 1912, only to find Amundsen's flag already planted.

- **Tragic End:** Scott and his team perished on their return journey. Their deaths sparked a global outpouring of admiration and mourning for their courage and sacrifice.

Situated at Cape Evans on Ross Island, the hut provided shelter and a base of operations for  It was constructed primarily from pre-fabricated wooden panels, which were transported to Antarctica aboard the Terra Nova ship.  Expertly designed to withstand the harsh Antarctic conditions, there's double-layered insulated walls, a pitched roof to shed snow, and raised wooden floors to provide insulation from the frozen ground.

Scott's Hut served as living quarters, scientific laboratory, and storage facility for the expedition team, housing provisions, equipment, and personal belongings, most of which remains to this day.

Scott's team spent months preparing for their Antarctic expedition, meticulously planning supplies, equipment, and logistics for the journey.  The Terra Nova ship departed from Cardiff, Wales, in June 1910, carrying Scott and his team, along with supplies and provisions for the expedition.  After a treacherous journey through icy waters, the Terra Nova arrived at Cape Evans in January 1911, where the hut was swiftly assembled to provide shelter for the approaching Antarctic winter.

Following Scott's tragic death and the end of the expedition, subsequent Antarctic missions used Scott's Hut as a base of operations. It remained in use until the 1930s when it was abandoned and preserved as a historic site.

**Overall History and Important Facts:**

Scott's Hut, along with artifacts and supplies left behind, provides invaluable insights into the daily lives, challenges, and scientific endeavors of early Antarctic explorers.  Conservation efforts have been ongoing to preserve and protect Scott's Hut and its contents from the harsh Antarctic environment, including restoration projects to stabilize the structure and prevent further deterioration.  Scott's Hut stands as a symbol of human exploration, endurance, and sacrifice in one of the most inhospitable environments on Earth. It serves as a poignant reminder of the triumphs and tragedies of Antarctic exploration and continues to inspire generations of adventurers and scientists.

Stepping inside Scott's Hut, youre immediately transported back in time to an era of exploration, bravery, and discovery. Not only is it the purity and wonder of it all but theres a smell too.. The stack of weddell seals at the door certainly have their own aroma, the animal section where the ponies and dogs were but the preservation is also remarkable - not a cobweb or hint of dust in sight. The spirits of those who dared to venture into the unknown linger amidst the frozen silence of Antarctica's icy landscape.

5th Summer as a Chef in Antarctica!

I can't help but feel a rush of excitement surging through my veins with the fifth summer in Antarctica ahead of me!  Again with Antarctica New Zealand, ready to dive into another four-month contract filled with who-knows-what adventure and experiences.

Returning to Antarctica feels like coming home in a way. Having been here already with New Zealand and three times with Australia, each trip holds its own special memories and challenges.

The application process for this role is no walk in the park. It involves various screenings including interviews, psychometric testing, and a comprehensive medical examination, so its always a relief to pass all of them.  

Once on the ice, my role as a chef will be familiar - different kitchen than last time due to its upgrade since I was last there, but working alongside other chefs, we'll cater to the diverse palates of up to 130 individuals, comprised of staff and scientists. Despite the remote location, our kitchen buzzes with activity and we'll prepare meals that fuel both body and soul with frozen veges, a variety of proteins, pa

ntry staples and select 'freshies' when fresh fruit and vegetables arrive on inbound flights.

It's not all about the kitchen hustle though. One of the perks of working in Antarctica with New Zealand is the opportunity to explore what's outside during downtime. From walks to  activities like skiing and fat biking and, luckily, arranged 'fam trips' in a Hagglunds vehicle to historic sites like the iconic huts of explorers Scott and Shackleton, or, simply make the 3km trip over the hill to Americas McMurdo station.  With upwards of 1000 staff its akin to a mining town and has everything from gyms, to a chapel, yoga, a hair salon, store and alcoholics anonymous.

The landscape down here is nothing short of amazing. Glaciers, ice caves, mountains, ice shelf,  sea ice and the charismatic residents of Antarctica – seals lazing on icy shores, the occasional adelie or emperor penguins in the distance, and the majestic Mount Erebus dominating the horizon in the background.

Living in Antarctica comes with its own set of unique quirks. With the sun not setting during the summer months, darkness is a luxury reserved for our cozy sleeping quarters. Staff and science alike share all facilities - bedrooms from 2 to 4 in a room, bathrooms, a big laundry with 4 machines, kitchen area, gym, movie rooms, 2 libraries and a bar.  

As my time in Antarctica draws to a close, I reflect on the incredible journey I've embarked upon once again. Flying home on the NZDF 757, I can't help but feel a sense of awe at the vast expanse of icy terrain stretching beneath us. Touching down in Christchurch, I'm reminded of the stark contrast between the frozen wonderland I've just left behind and the bustling world awaiting me beyond its icy borders.

Until next time, Antarctica. You'll always hold a piece of my heart, and I'll forever cherish the memories forged amidst your frozen splendor.