The Golden Temple – Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, Kathmandu

Just a few steps from Patan Durbar Square, tucked into the busy lanes of Lalitpur, lies the Golden Temple (Hiranya Varna Mahavihar) — one of the most sacred Buddhist monasteries in the Kathmandu Valley.  Don't expect to see a literal golden temple from the street though, like I did - there's a black entrance, a small courtyard and then you walk through and archway and are at the actual Golden Temple.

This monastery was founded in the 12th century and is still an active place of worship. Its nickname comes from the dazzling gilded façade, statues, and metalwork that decorate the courtyard and shrine. The temple houses a striking golden image of Shakyamuni Buddha, alongside statues of Avalokiteshvara and Tara, watched over by guardian deities at every corner.  There seemed to be no shortage of hawkers at each corner too, but I did what I do with all hawkers and kept on walking.  

Street view of the Temple Entrance

Despite being centuries old, the temple remains alive with rituals and daily worship. The monastery is cared for by a community of Newar Buddhist priests, and every morning you’ll find devotees offering butter lamps, rice, and prayers.

The temple complex itself is small, but layered with history — intricate carvings, prayer wheels, and ornate toranas (gateways) show the unique fusion of Hindu and Buddhist traditions that defines Newar culture. Inside, photography is restricted, but the atmosphere — incense, chants, flickering lamps — stays with you long after, and I had no issue getting any of the photos or videos that I got.

Entry is modest at 100 NPR for foreigners, and the quick walk to the temple is easy to combine with a visit to Patan Museum and Durbar Square.

Patan Durbar Square, Kathmandu

Today I visited Patan Durbar Square in Lalitpur (Patan), just across the Bagmati River from Kathmandu. 

This UNESCO World Heritage Site was once the royal palace of the Malla kings, and it truly feels like stepping into a living museum. The square is filled with exquisite Newar architecture — tiered temples, courtyards, shrines, and intricate wood carvings that tell centuries-old stories. 

Patan’s roots go back to the 3rd century BC, making it one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. The square itself flourished under the Malla dynasty (14th–18th century), when Newar kings competed to build temples, palaces, and monuments of breathtaking beauty. Many of the masterpieces standing today — like the Krishna Mandir (1637 AD) carved entirely from stone — date from this golden age.

The square was badly damaged during the 2015 earthquake, but reconstruction efforts, supported by UNESCO, have restored much of its glory. Wandering here, you’re walking through centuries of resilience and artistry.

Highlights include the Patan Museum (housed in a former royal palace wing), which is internationally acclaimed for its collection of sacred art and detailed curation. Just beyond the square, the Golden Temple (Hiranya Varna Mahavihar) — founded in the 12th century — shines with gilt details and Buddhist symbolism, and is still a living monastery.

Entry to the square is about 1,000 NPR for foreigners, including museum access. Around the square, narrow lanes hide craft workshops, tea shops, and hidden courtyards where daily life unfolds in rhythm with centuries of tradition.

Patan truly earns its name — “City of Beauty” — blending history, spirituality, and living culture in every corner.

Visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau, Poland

Poland was always very close to the top of my bucket travel list, and finally getting there was a dream come true.  I remember it clearly - a train from a Slovak border town north to Krakow in Poland.  

Entrance to Auschwitz

You can easily spend a few hours by the time you've seen both Auschwitz and Birkenau, and while the walk through the grounds felt unreal and eerie, I remember it wasn't until later when I printed my photos, that the weight of what Id seen sank in. And out of everything I saw and took in that day, what's always stayed with me since was the unforgettable image of a baby - one photo out of hundreds, of the many who'd died there.  

Crematorium 

From 1940–1945, over 1.1 million people were murdered here: Jews, Poles, Romani people, Soviet POWs, and others. Birkenau was designed for mass extermination, its gas chambers killing thousands daily. The railway line cutting into the camp, the endless wooden barracks, the barbed wire, the shower cells, the gas chambers and the many piles of personal items including suitcases, reading glasses and even human hair - such a tragic and moving piece of history.

Visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau is confronting, but it’s a place the world must continue to visit. A reminder to humandity, of humanity, at such a dark point in history.  

Whats It Like Living and Working in the Falkland Islands?

Last summer I made another long journey south, again for work, only this time to a new frontier for me -  the Falkland Islands, a British Overseas Territory made up of East and West Falkland and about 200 smaller islands.

King Penguins - Falkland Islands

True to my style, I found the job advertised on a Falkland Islands job page I had joined on Facebook — so I applied, got it, confirmed it and off I went after a brief break from my Svalbard contract! The job was for cooking on Carcass Island, a privately owned (like most of the islands there) gem in the northwest of the archipelago. Carcass has no roads, no shops, and no permanent settlement beyond the lodge, which was a farm house in its heyday.  Most of the island offering accommodation in the Falklands have a similar set up, and there's something unique and homely about staying in such buildings.  The Falklands are known for incredible wildlife, both bird and mammal, including 3 types of penguin, caracaras, albatross, elephant seals, dolphins and whales — and sweeping, untouched beaches with crystal clear waters and rugged coastlines.  Carcass has large elephant seal populations, megallanec and jackass penguins and plenty of birds from geese, to ducks to wrens.  Its one of the few islands thats never suffered the presence of cats, so not only are there plenty of birds, theyre also not afraid and some will get close and comfortable enough to even land on you.

Gentoo Penguins, Sunrise

The rugged coastline, South Atlantic Ocean, FI

The summer season runs from October to April, when cruise ships bound for Antarctica stop by and small groups of nature-loving tourists fly in. Most visit specifically for the wildlife: and many make return trips. Some of the cruise ships even anchor at Carcass Island for a few hours so that their guests can explore and if their booking includes morning or afternoon tea - then well get up to 300 people visiting us in the lodge for morning or afternoon tea - which I cater for.  

Cormorants, Carcass Island

Elephant Seals, Carcass Island

Most non-cruise ship guests, the bulk of visitors, stay 2–3 nights at the lodge, and we can host a maximum of 16 people at a time. Breakfasts and dinners are catered for by me and a packed lunch prepared for them to take out on their day of exploring - hiking, birdwatching, and photography. Everyone arrives and departs with FIGAS on their little 8-seater planes that connect the islands.

Visitors came from all over the globe, but mostly the UK, US, Germany, and a few adventurous South Americans.
The Falklands themselves have a tiny population of just over 3,500, sustained by fishing, sheep farming, and tourism. Due to the invasion from Argentina in the 80s, there’s also a strong UK defence presence. To get there, you can fly once a week via Chile (Santiago → Punta Arenas → Mount Pleasant) or on the RAF airbridge from the UK.

Vultures

Kelp Goose & Chick

Upland Goose at Sunrise

There's something very special and unique about the Falklands, so much so that Ill be returning for a second summer season this October - bring it!